Weingut Fritz Waßmer: A German Pinot Noir & Chardonnay Pioneer.
Until the 1990s, Fritz Waßmer himself was a farmer, cultivating strawberries and asparagus. Today, however, Weingut Fritz Waßmer is regarded as one of Germany’s most acclaimed wineries, particularly for its single-vineyard Chardonnay and Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir).
His wines have received top accolades, including the highest five-grape rating from Gault & Millau for both the Chardonnay and Spätburgunder from Herbolzheimer Kaiserberg, as well as 95 points from Vinum for the Herbolzheimer Kaiserberg Spätburgunder and Staufener Schlossberg Chardonnay.
Last summer, we had the privilege of tasting a selection of these single-vineyard wines just before the bottling of the 2022 vintage. The wines were truly remarkable—one of the best vintages yet.
In this article, we delve into the story of Weingut Fritz Waßmer and its wines, based on insights from an online interview with its current cellar master, Armin Ritter.
From Farming to Fine Wine: The Journey of Fritz Waßmer
At 19 years old—nearly 50 years ago—Fritz Waßmer planted vineyards to grow grapes for sale but later shifted his focus entirely to farming. However, in the late 1990s, an opportunity arose to acquire some of Baden’s finest vineyard sites, prompting him to head to winemaking and start from scratch.
Before establishing his winery in 1998, Waßmer traveled extensively to study winemaking in top wine regions around the world, including across Europe, Australia, New Zealand, Oregon, Chile etc.,. His key realization: Soil, climate, and the intricate connection between terroir and wine quality are the foundation of great winemaking—a perspective shaped by his farmer’s intuition and deep understanding of the land.
Burgundy was not his initial destination, but rather a region he kept returning to after hearing about it from other winemakers, leading him to intern and work there. A defining moment came when he worked on the sorting line at one of the world’s most prestigious estates, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti (DRC). This experience, along with multiple visits to Burgundy, profoundly influenced his philosophy and winemaking techniques. He adopted key practices such as the use of French clones, high-density planting, and, most importantly, an uncompromising focus on grape health—one of the critical lessons he learned at DRC.
The Unique Terroir of Fritz Waßmer’s Vineyards
Fritz Waßmer’s vineyards are located in Baden, Geramany, a region with ideal conditions for cultivating Pinot Noir and recently Chardonnay. Several key factors set these vineyard sites apart: a moderate climate with no extreme temperature fluctuations, while cold winds from Black Forest contributes to retain refreshing high acidity.
The various soils types including limestone- and chalk-rich soils are essential for producing structured, expressive wines.
While many of Waßmer’s vineyards were newly established, some old vines (50+ years old) already existed, and he chose to keep them rather than replanting.
For instance, Kenzinger Roter Berg has a storied history—over a century ago, it produced some of Germany’s most sought-after and expensive Pinot Noir. Bombacher Sommerhalde benefits from cool winds from the Black Forest, preserving freshness and delivering high acidity to the wines. Herbolzheimer Kaiserberg features a mix of granite, limestone, and chalk, enhancing minerality and structure in both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Germany’s new wine classification system (Grosses Gewächs and Erstes Gewächs) is still evolving. The vineyards (e.g., Roter Berg, Sommerhalde, Kaiserberg) meet the quality standards for Grosses Gewächs, they are not officially classified yet but are in the process of being recognized. Additionally, Waßmer chose not to join the VDP to maintain flexibility in the past, but the conditions are also updated. Fritz Waßmer remains open to future possibilities.
Viticulture and Winemaking Philosophy
Fritz Waßmer tryies to express the terroir in the wine. This philosophy respects nature and remains the level of quality control rigorous.
One of Fritz Waßmer’s defining practices is high-density planting, with 9,000–12,000 vines per hectare—a stark contrast to the regional norm. Each vine produces only 220–250g of grapes, meaning four vines are needed to produce a single bottle. In Baden, the typical yield is 2.5 kg per vine— Waßmer’s yields are 10 times lower than the regional norm and that his focus on quality over quantity was a significant difference from the traditional Baden approach.
Fritz Waßmer is deeply influenced by Burgundian winemaking. However, it is not simple. ‘Rather than replicating it, we adapt these principles to Baden’s unique terroir and the specific conditions of our vineyards,’ Armin explained. For instance, Fritz Waßmer employs massal selection of Burgundian clones to enhance complexity, while tailoring vineyard practices to suit the local conditions.
Precision sorting is another cornerstone of their philosophy. Every grape undergoes a triple-selection process—once in the vineyard and twice at the winery—to ensure only the healthiest, perfectly ripened fruit is used. ‘We only use grapes that we would be willing to eat,’ Armin mentioned. This unwavering attention to detail underscores Waßmer’s commitment to terroir-driven wines, where every bottle expresses the pure essence of its origin.
Recommended Wines and Reviews
Armin recommends starting with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir Gutswein for beginners, while the Chardonnay Schlossberg Staufen and Spätburgunder Bombacher Sommerhalde come highly recommended for connoisseurs who appreciate single-vineyard wines. The Chardonnay Schlossberg Staufen offers power, freshness and finesse, yet making it an excellent in its young age. Meanwhile, the Spätburgunder Bombacher Sommerhalde is smooth, elegant, and highly expressive. At the top of the range, both Chardonnay and Spätburgunder from Herbolzheimer Kaiserberg stand out for their elegance, structure, and long aging potential.
We had the opportunity to taste some of Fritz Waßmer’s representative wines from the 2020 and 2022 vintages in this online session. 2020 vintage was cooler, with brighter fruit and a more approachable style. In contrast, 2022 vintage had balanced acidity, floral aromatics, and minerality due to stable weather, which was a near-perfect year for both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
Weißer Burgunder Schlossberg Staufen 2022 | 100% Pinot Blanc
This barrel-fermented Pinot Blanc offers an elegant balance of just-ripe apricot, lemon, lemon peel, vanilla cream, and toasted hazelnuts, complemented by subtle notes of caramel, wet stone, and white pepper. The zippy, high acidity enhances its freshness, while a vibrant minerality lingers through the citrus-driven finish. Fresh, fruity, and enegetic.
We award this wine with a 92-point DWA score.
2022 Chardonnay Herbolzheimer Kaiserberg | 100% Chardonnay
This 70% new oak-aged Chardonnay presents an inviting nose of cream and vanilla, elegantly intertwined with lemon peel, apricot, nectarine, white florals, and a touch of white pepper. On the palate, it is concentrated and complex, with high yet refined acidity that lends finesse and elegance. The extremely long, mineral-driven finish adds to its sophistication and aging potential.
We award this wine with a 96-point DWA score.
2020 Spätburgunder Alte Reben | 100% Pinot Noir
Sourced from old vines, including Kenzinger Roter Berg and other historic plots, this wine showcases the depth and complexity that only mature vineyards can provide.
The nose is bright, elegant, and layered, featuring red cherry, raspberry, ripe wild strawberry, and herbs. On the palate, it is smooth with a structure defined by vibrant, high acidity and silky tannins. Approachable and elegant.
We award this wine with a 91-point DWA score.
2022 Spätburgunder Kenzinger Roter Berg | 100% Pinot Noir
The iron-rich soil in this vineyard shapes a bolder, darker fruit profile, adding depth and intensity. The nose is highly concentrated, featuring notes of sour black cherry, strawberry, red cherry, violet, mixed spices, and a subtle hint of mint. On the palate, it is generaous, with expressive fruit, balanced by juicy acidity and siliy tannins. The long, spicy finish leaves a lasting impression of complexity and refinement.
We award this wine with a 94-point DWA score.
2022 Spätburgunder Bombacher Sommerhalde | 100% Pinot Noir
Situated right next to the cool Black Forest, imparting a distinct character to the wine. The nose is floral and vibrant, with rose petals and crunchy red fruits like cranberry, red cherry, and strawberry, complemented by spices. The palate is leaner, structured, mineral-driven, and refined, with high vibrant acidity and silky tannins, Bright and precise. A long spicy finish, leaving a lasting impression of depth and elegance.
We award this wine with a 95-point DWA score.
2022 Spätburgunder Herbolzheimer Kaiserberg | 100% Pinot Noir
Humus-rich loess clay, yellow limestone marl underneath, supported by light slate and granite. The high, steep rock faces are warmed by the sun and slowly give this warmth to the vines, whie constant cool winds blowing.
Most powerful, boosting intense, deep aromas of dark red and black fruits, showcasing dense cherry, ripe strawberry, spiceis, pepper, anise, and mint. The palate is also very intense and complex, with fine-grained tannins and refreshing acidity. Powerful at the same time very elegant.
We award this wine with a 96-point DWA score.
Final Thoughts: The Legacy and Future of Fritz Waßmer
Fritz Waßmer’s journey from farmer to renowned winemaker is a testament to his dedication, vision, and relentless pursuit of quality. His winery, Weingut Fritz Waßmer, produces wines that beautifully express the uniqueness of each terroir. Today, Fritz is no longer on this journey alone—he is joined by the next generation, including his daughter Lisa, her husband and cellar master Armin, and her brother Felix.
Their wines, particularly Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, reflect their deep understanding of terroir and dedication to the quality. For both casual wine lovers and serious collectors, Waßmer’s wines are redefining what German Pinot Noir and Chardonnay can be.
If you would like to learn more about Germany’s Baden region, and Weingut Fritz Waßmer check out our article on ‘Baden and Spätburgunder’ here. This includes additional reviews of Fritz Waßmer’s wines.
We would like to extend our thanks to Weingut Fritz Waßmer, especially Armin Ritter for sharing these fascinating insights during our interview. This article was written by our own Kazumi Uejo. Fritz Waßmer’s wines are available in international markets. In the Netherlands, you can purchase them through importer Gall&Gall. Picture credits: Fritz Waßmer.
