Ma’d Moser: Reviving Tokaj with Global Vision and Local Expertise.
When we talk to winemakers, the conversation all too often turns into micro-management. Soil composure, grape varieties and pruning techniques are common subjects. When the illustrious Austrian winemaker Lenz Moser however is subject of conversation, it takes a whole different turn. Then the talk is about creation of new wine regions or redevelopment existing ones. Moser thinks and acts global. We just mention his megalomanic China project, called Château Changyu Moser XV. And now his eye turns on the Hungarian wine region Tokaj. Moser and his business partner Rita Takaró are dedicated to put Tokaj back on the map. We speak to Takaró about this ambitious project called Mád Moser.
Regional Brain meets Global Mind
Takaró is deeply rooted in Tokaj. During her studies in Budapest, she meets a winemaker from Tokaj. Takaró falls in love with him – and the region. After her studies she started to work for the Tokaj Renaissance Association. She travels the globe to tell the world about Tokaj. ‘I had the possibility to learn everything about Tokaj and to get to know everybody.’ During her work for the state-owned winery Grand Tokaj, Takaró gets in touch with Lenz Moser.
After leading the Austrian family winery Lenz Moser for ten years, Moser started selling wines as General Manager Europe for Robert Mondavi Wines. His more recent project ‘The New Chapter‘ is a collaboration with winemaker Markus Hubert, and can be seen as a prolongation of his tribute to Grüner Veltliner.
Lenz’s most discussed project however might be ‘Chateau Changyu Moser XV’ , a project on an unprecedented scale, dedicated to produce the most prestigious Chinese wines.
No half measures with Moser, that much is clear. Takaró explains: ‘Lenz want to do more than just selling wines. He wants to do something good for the regions. He wants to start missions.’
The Rise and Fall of Tokaj
An article about Tokaj draw Moser’s attention. He starts cooperating with Grand Tokaj, where he meets Takaró. Moser en Takaró talk about giving Tokaj back to the world. ‘We have an extremely rich terroir and highly potential grape varieties.’ The region however failed to hold on the position on the world market it once had. During the 17th and 18th century, Tokaj wines were world famous and highly valued. Two world wars and the nationalization of the wine industry forces Tokaj to its knees. After the fall of the Berlin wall, a new era starts. Investors build-up wineries like Royal Tokaj, Oremus and Disznókö. Although these wineries succeed to obtain a position, the region as a whole stays behind. Takaró explains: ‘Tokaj is a small wine region with only 5.500 hectares of vines. The majority of 300 wineries produces wines for the local market. We failed to communicate the region the world.’
Restoring Historical Heritage on Modern Principals
Moser is convinced he can. ‘Lenz brought his global mind to Tokaj. He said: our mission is to make Tokaj famous again’. Moser and Takaró start to work out a business plan. Takaró brings in local knowledge and Moser funding and a global vision. ‘We had to select an innovative winery, capable to produce high quality wines.’ They find a partner in the esteemed winery MAD. The winery is located in Mád, one of the most important wine villages of the region, surrounded by the most valued vineyards of the region.
The brand-new partners share a conviction. They all believe in the potential of Furmint. ‘We believe Furmint has the potential to be among the best wines of the world. Furmint has great acidity levels and our volcanic terroir gives it power.’ Moser and Takaró, together with MAD’s winemaker Gabor Urbán select plots and compose blends. They share an unclouded vision on the wines they want to make. ‘Our idea is to show Tokaj from the dry side. Our focus is dry Furmints in a friendly way. When Furmint is made unfriendly, it can be too serious. Our style is dry, vibrant, powerful, mineral and friendly.’
Adjusting Plans
The partners create two dry wines: the MM5 without oak and the MM55 with oak. So far so good. But, as always, not everything goes according to the plan. It turns out buyers keep on asking for sweet wines. Tokaj seems inextricably connected to sweet wines. If fact, Tokaj has become a brand name for sweet wines. And that is for a reason to be clear. To quote Takaró: ‘it is liquid gold, you cannot find this concentration anywhere in the world.’ Moser en Takaró decide to add one sweet wine to their portfolio: a 6 puttonyos Tokaji 2013. The wine is made by Grand Tokaj, from grapes sourced from selected own vineyards. ‘We want a vintage that is at least 10 years old, because these wines start to be good at a minimum of 10 years. We choose 2013, because it is one of the best vintages so far.’
Eye-catching Appearance
According to Takaró, the portfolio of Ma’d Wines is complete now. ‘Producers in Tokaj make a lot of wines, in various styles. For the consumer, it is too complicated to understand. The past ten years the regulation has been slightly simplified, but I think there still is lot of work to do.’ The labelling of the Ma’d Moser seems to express this urge to simplification. They could not have been more modern and flashier. Takaró smilingly confirms: ‘we want to create wines for the international market and sell them in 60 different countries. Our wines are new and innovative. We need to encourage the buyers to pick our bottles. We want international attention. Therefor we need eye-catching labelling. It is our dream to be the Cloudy Bay of Tokaj one day.’
The Wines
The wines of Ma’d Moser are MM5, MM55 and MM555. ‘We want a short and easy name.’ MM stands for Ma’d Moser and the number 5 appears to be a main future in the exitance of the project: ‘our first wine was released on the 5th of May 2022. 5 is my favorite number because I was born on 5th of September. On my birthday we released our second wine: the MM55. And 5 is a lucky number in China.’
Ma’d Moser – 2021 Furmint Dry MM5
The MM5 is meant to promote dry Furmint from Tokaj to world. The wine expresses the interpretation of Moser en Takaró of dry Furmint from Tokaj, without rough edges. MM5 is made in stainless steel, with a drip of Hárslevelű and a touch of residual sugar (4.6 gr/l), balancing out its acids (7 gr/l). Takaró tells they want to lower the alcohol (14%) next years. In 2021 high acids and insufficient phenolic ripeness forced them to pick at slightly higher sugar levels than preferred.
Right after pouring the bright and pale coloured wine seems a little timid, but oxygen kisses her awake. Next to a pleasant touch of flinty reduction we are welcomed by a fresh fragrant citrus dominated bouquet. We note flavours like lemon, lime, lime zest and white peach. The fruits are accompanied by crisp and punchy herbal flavours like coriander, spearmint and white pepper.
On the palate the wine opens slightly filling, dominated by ripe green citrus fruits, such as lime and green kiwifruit. The wine is highly frisky and energetic. Powerful razor-sharp acids play along with a balancing fluffy touch of residual sugar. The conveniently long-lasting aftertaste leaves a spicy and peppy impression, accompanied by a pleasant fruity bitterness and a touch of ripe white peach and yellow kiwi. The wine offers a nice balance between typicity and approachability. The water runs into our mouths when we think this Furmint Dry MM5 next to a ceviche in tiger’s milk.
We reward this wine with a 91-point DWA score.
Ma’d Moser – 2021 Furmint Dry MM55
Unlike the MM5, the MM55 has seen oak from the inside. The wine is composed out of grapes from vineyards around Mád: Nyulaszo, St. Tamas and Kiraly. The wine is fermented and aged for 8 months in 300-liter Hungarian oak barrels, of which 70% is new.
The prominently barrel flavors like hay, vanilla and pistachio rapidly assimilate with the fresh fruity flavors. The bouquet is dominated by lemon, lime and green apple. With time, the fruit evolves towards more rich and ripe fruits like ripe lemon and mango. Next to some yeasty, stony and saline aromas, we mention its uplifting green herbal character, showing cilantro, cactus and white pepper.
The attack is filled with juicy ripe white fruits. The wine shows a floral and tingling character, showing fresh green herbs like mint and basil. Striking acids build up towards an exciting climax, while concentrated fruit like lemon, grapefruit and green kiwi splash out. Time enriches the wine towards ripe citrus, underripe mango and lemon curd. A touch of residual sugar tames the racy acids and provides comfortable roundness and a sweetish sensation – although the wine is not sweet at all. A touch of coconut, a fruity bitterness, slightly warming alcohol and refreshing lemon acids remain in the long-lasting aftertaste.
We reward this wine with a 92-point DWA score.
Ma’d Moser x Grand Tokaj – 2013 Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos
As mentioned before, the Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos 2013 is made by Grand Tokaj, from grapes sourced from Grand Tokaj’s own vineyards. Moser en Takaró already tasted this wine during their time at Grand Tokaj. For those who are not familiar with Tokaj, we shortly discuss Aszú wines.
The production of Tokaji Aszú starts with a base wine from healthy grapes. Before, during or after the fermentation Aszú grapes are soaked into the wine. Aszú grapes are grapes infected by botrytis cinerea (noble rot). Botrytis pierces the skin of the grapes, letting the water evaporate and concentrate acids, sugars and flavours. The amount of Aszú grapes determines the sugar amount and is expressed in puttony, the buckets in which the Aszú grapes are gathered. Under current legislation, 6 puttonyos is the highest level of Tokaji Aszú, with a minimum of 150 grams sugar per liter.
The Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos 2013 by Ma’d Moser and Grand Tokaj is a blend of Furmint, Hárslevelű and Sárgamuskotály. The wine is aged in 500-liter Hungarian oak barrels for 24 months. The amber-coloured wine reveals a high viscosity. On the one hand the bouquet is luscious and hedonistic, showing overwhelming luxurious flavours like honey, marmalade, dried apricot and peach compote. On the other hand, the flavours throw a clue to the complex profile of the wine. On the fresh side we mention ripe orange, orange zest and candied citrus. On the serious side we note luxurious oriental spices and an intriguing earthy darkness, with caramel, coffee and even a slightly hint of white truffle.
On the palate the Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos 2013 by Ma’d Moser and Grand Tokaj is as hedonistic as Parisian night club and as distinguished as a British gentlemen’s club. The attack immediately immerses into a syrupy world of velvet fruits. Bowls full of dried apricots, juicy yellow plums cover the surface. One by one in maximum concentration and pression. When the orchestra of acids starts to play, you are carried away to deeper grounds. Great elegance and grace lead along countless layers of fresh fruits. Just when you think the journey is over, irresistible dark flavours enter the stage. Seductive caramel, oriental spices, honey, fig, white chocolate. And it just goes on and on and on…
We reward this wine with a 95-point DWA score.
Conclusion
It all starts with a vision. Lenz Moser, Rita Takaró and their partners show vision, decisiveness and perseverance. Just as important, their wines demonstrate a high-quality standard. Both dry wines – the MM5 and MM55 – illustrate a perfect balance between authenticity and approachability. They meet modern standards. We would not mind seeing some rough edges in the dry Furmint wines, but we understand the market of self-flagellation lovers would be too niche to base on a business plan. On the MM555 we can be brief: the Aszú 6 Puttonyos is a perfect reflection of the heritage of Tokaj. Along with Lenz Moser and Rita Takaró we hope to see more authentic dry Furmints from Tokaj, but please let it not be at the expanse of these unparalleled sweet Tokaji wines.
This article is written by our own Hermen Jansen. In the Netherlands the wines of Ma’d Moser wines are imported by Jean Arnaud and available through selected retail and hospitality partners.
