Elevating Ribera: Tomás Postigo’s Mastery of Tradition and Innovation.
Ribera del Duero holds a special place in our heart, this Spanish region produces excellent reds and whites, and is increasing its footprint in the global wine world at a steady pace.
Recently our Marlon Rouw had the opportunity to attend a masterclass by VinVin Wines, and tasted some Ribera wines by a winery that has become a leading name in just 15 years; Tomás Postigo.
The Legacy of Tomás Postigo in Ribera Del Duero
Tomás Postigo has become one of the leading wineries Ribera Del Duero, within a very short timeframe. The winery is situated in Peñafiel, Valladolid. This inspiring family business has been producing complex wines since the winery was founded in 2008, while keeping their steadfast commitment to sustainability and quality. The first white wine was produced in 2008 and first red in 2009. However, owner Tomás is one of the most experienced winemakers in Ribera del Duero, ever since 1984. Besides family, this winery is dedicated to remaining the traditions of the region over the years. Wines are produced with full attention for the craft. During the vinification the usage of native yeast is what gives the wines their unique character. Winemaker and owner Tomás passionately educates his children about wine and sustainable winemaking, in order for them to be able to take over the winery in the future. For a while, his four sons did not take a role in the vineyard. However, during the masterclass, the oldest son, Gabriel, told us that they all joined the project after years of working in other fields.
Pioneering Sustainability: Tomás Postigo’s Eco-Innovative Approach in Ribera Del Duero
Tomás Postigo has proudly won the ““Ecological Carbon Footprint” award, being the first winery in Spain. They were one of the first to use gravity flow within the winery. This is used for example for the transportation of the harvest and is a sustainable farming method, in order to reduce emission and thus the carbon footprint. Additionally, Postigo aims to reduce waste and water usage. These are only a few examples of everything they strive to improve when it comes to sustainability.
In order to guarantee the quality of the wines, there is a production limit. For the high-end red wines, the production level can never exceed the 300.000 bottles per year.
Postigo has 30 hectares of own vineyards, and also purchases from vine-growers that they have been partnering with for many years. The goal is to produce 50% of the grapes themselves. Gabriel proudly explained that the pay the highest price per kg to their vine-growers in the entire area of Ribera del Duero. It is their mission to ensure great circumstances and investments in the vineyards of the vine-growers. That implies that only the best grapes can be selected, and it is financially less interesting to grow anything else than grapes. In the last two years, the grapes only derive from herbicide-free vineyards, where all treatments are organic. With these great results, they are heading towards a bio organic certification.
Crafting Excellence: Meticulous Vineyard Practices and Winemaking
All vines are controlled and monitored throughout the season. Not only their own plots, but the vine-growers are also educated on the best, sustainable vine growing techniques. All grapes are harvested by hand and securely transferred in small 10 kg crates, in order to keep the grapes intact. Gabriel explained that this is crucial in their process, because the fermentation starts whenever the grapes are crushed. Therefore, maintaining the grapes in optimal condition until they are ready to start the winemaking is of great importance. Then, the grapes are manually sorted at the sorting table in order to select only the best grapes.
The grapes are transported through the winery by the gravity flow. This is not only better for sustainability reasons, it also prevents damage of the grapes and the seeds and stems. Seeds and stems are taken seriously in the winemaking process, since they can influence the taste and structure of the wines.
Postigo uses new French oak solely to age their wines in. They lease the new barrels, just like car leasing, and check upon them at the cooperages before receiving them each and every single year. A lot of attention is paid to the level of toasting, the quality of the barrels, etc. Mostly the smaller barrels are used, which is remarkable by how well the wood is integrated without dominating the wine.
Finally, as mentioned earlier, the usage of native yeast results in the unique character that carries the hallmark for Postigo wines.
Review of the Wines
For this article we tasted and reviewed three different Tomas Postigo wines, one white and two reds. These wines paint an excellent picture of what the winery stands for and showcase the quality produced by them.
2019 Blanco F.B.
Grape: Verdejo.
It is not often that a Verdejo wine is aged in oak barrels. This wine is the obvious reason why this should be done more often. From the first hint, these aromas keep you captivated. Until you go for the first sip. The incredible number of layers on the palette makes this a dangerous wine. Complexity is found in aromas varying from passionfruit to peach, lemon and butterscotch, vanilla and even fennel. The full body and mouth-watering acidity form a perfect balance together with the minerality of the wine. The higher alcohol percentage provides for an additional kick and supports the great intensity of this wine. It is evident from the structure that this wine has had 8 months of ageing in new French oak, including regular bâtonnage. Looking at ageing potential, this wine can probably rest on the shelf for a longer period of time than your self-control will allow.
We award this wine with a 93-point DWA score.
2020 3er Año Ribera del Duero Tinto
Grapes: Tinto Fino (Tempranillo), Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec.
As the motto of Tomás Postigo suggests, this bottle is produced with the highest level of craftsmanship. After the grapes are harvested into small boxes to prevent the grapes from getting damaged, they are selected by hand. This particular blend of 4 different grape varieties is aged in French oak barrels for one year. The wine is a special assemblage of 56 individual wines, which results in a well-balanced, complex glass of wine. In the nose this wine offers a selection of berries, spices, raspberry, cedar, cloves, black pepper and figs. On the palette the round tannins and structure will elevate your mood, without getting too heavy or warm. The length of this wine will consume you for a long time, ending with a rustic, elegant and spicy finish. The ageing potential is very promising, and the intensity is terrific. Summarising all of the above, this has to be an iconic wine.
We award this wine with a 94-point DWA score.
2017 5er Año Ribera del Duero Tinto
Grapes: Tinto Fino (Tempranillo), Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec.
The altitude of 750 – 1000 meters and soil composition already sign this wine up for success. This powerful wine was aged in small French oak barrels for five years. The winemaker decided to make 46 different wines with varying grape varieties, barrels and vineyards, where this bottle consists of all of them. The wine is exclusively produced in exceptional vintages.
In the glass this deep ruby coloured wine shows a great spectrum of aromas like plums, cinnamon, cherries, eucalyptus, mint, balsamic, liquorice, chocolate and bay leaves. Compared to the 3er Año, this wine offers more tannins and deeper intensity. On the palette the structure is softer, complex, warm and sultry with an elegant ending. The taste lingers for a marvellous amount of time, and includes different explosions of flavours. Again, this wine holds great potential to age and develop even more. This extraordinary wine offers such a unique and complex finish that this definitely deserves the highest score of the three bottles.
We award this wine with a 95-point DWA score.
Uncompromising Quality: The Lasting Impact of Tomás Postigo’s Wines
With the greatest pleasure these complex and intense wines were examined. The quality of all three is outstanding providing a fantastic length with multiple, yet integrated, dimensions. They will be absolutely fabulous in a gastronomic setting, even though that is not even a prerequisite. Decanting the wines will give them the opportunity to fully present themselves. The level to which sustainability and quality are taken seriously at Postigo is inspiring. The precise craftsmanship is fully noticeable and elevates the wines to a level of unapologetic greatness.
This article is written by our own Marlon Rouw. We would like to thank VinVin Wines, who imports Tomas Postigo in the Dutch market, and of course Tomas Postigo for the great wines. All mentioned wines are available either directly through VinVin or via selected retail and hospitality partners.
