Europe’s Volcanic Wine Regions Explored.

Did you know there are around 600 known volcanoes worldwide, with 60 still active and producing approximately 20 eruptions daily? These volcanic activities not only shape new landscapes but also enrich existing ones, creating unique terroirs. The minerals they release into the soil reduce the need for artificial fertilizers, supporting more sustainable viticulture. But what exactly do these minerals contribute to wine in terms of flavor and aroma?

Wine journalist and consultant Fred Nijhuis explored this in his Masterclass on Volcanic Agriculture in Europe, which our own Michelle van de Vosse recently attended. The masterclass featured 12 wines from three volcanic regions in Europe, offering a fascinating exploration of these distinctive terroirs.

Region 1: Monte Lessini (DOC)

Located between Verona and Vicenza, the Monte Lessini region features soils shaped by volcanic activity between 50 and 35 million years ago. Alongside marine fossils, the soil contains basalt and tuff, which are rich in iron, magnesium, and calcium—essential nutrients for vine growth. Tuff, while retaining water, allows for excellent drainage, preventing waterlogging that could damage vine roots.

Lessini Durello

Lessini Durello Spumante wines must consist of at least 85% Durella grapes, with the option to blend up to 15% Chardonnay, Garganega, Pinot Bianco, or Pinot Nero.

During our tasting in this region, we sampled three spumantes:

1. Casa Cecchin (Lessini Durello Nostrum 36 Mesi)

A 100% Durella wine, aged for 36 months on the lees. This aging process imparts brioche and hazelnut notes, complementing its fresh, fruity character. With high acidity and a delicate mousse, it delivers a crisp, lively mouthfeel.

2. Casarotto (Lessini Durello 36 Mesi)

Another 100% Durella Spumante, aged 36 months on the lees with additional bottle aging. It has lower acidity, presenting fruity flavors like peach, apricot, and mango, alongside delicate citrus aromas of grapefruit and lemon. Toast and brioche notes add roundness to the wine’s intense mousse.

3. Sandro de Bruno (Lessini Durello 36 Mesi)

A blend of Durella and Pinot Bianco, also aged for 36 months on the lees. It features a robust yet elegant mousse, with fresh, fruity aromas of citrus and green apple, along with exotic hints of pineapple and mango. Almond and white flower notes bring added complexity to this refined and delicate wine.

While volcanic soil is often thought to be highly fertile, this is actually a misconception. Initially, volcanic soil contains little to no organic material because everything has been burned or suffocated by volcanic activity. As the soil settles, moss begins to grow, and its decay attracts organisms, gradually fostering the development of organic matter.

This slow process can take years before the soil becomes fertile enough for cultivation. Minerals in volcanic soil play a crucial role in supporting the growth of organic matter. They help produce ATP (Adenosine triphosphate), a vital nutrient for plant growth, including grapevines.

Region 2: Soave and Soave Classico

Situated east of Verona, Italy, the Soave region has expanded to three times its original size since 1931. The historic heart of the region is now known as Soave Classico. The volcanic soils here offer excellent drainage and contribute to the minerality and complexity of the wines, while limestone also plays a significant role in the terroir.

During our visit to Soave and Soave Classico, we tasted five wines:

1. I Stefanini (Soave DOC Il Selese 2023)

100% Garganega from 40-year-old vines, aged on the lees. This results in a smooth, medium-bodied wine with floral aromas and a creamy, juicy mouthfeel featuring ripe peach and apricot notes.

2. Cadis 1898 (Soave Classico DOC Rocca Sveva 2023)

A 100% Garganega wine, matured in stainless steel tanks. It offers a fresh, crisp profile with fruity notes of apple.

3. Giannitessari (Soave Classico DOC Perinato 2022)

Made from 100% handpicked Garganega using the pergola training system, this wine is fermented in temperature-controlled French oak and aged in 2,000-liter wooden tanks for 8–10 months. The result is a rich, rounded wine with aromas of dried fruits and almonds.

4. Corte Adami (Soave Superiore DOCG Vigna della Corte 2021)

This late-harvested Garganega is partially aged in oak, producing an elegant wine with body and flavors of ripe apricots, lemon, and honey.

5. Gini (Soave Classico DOC La Froscà 2016)

A 100% Garganega wine that made Wine Spectator’s Top 100 list. With a light golden color, it offers aromas of flowers, honey, yellow apple, and peach, balanced by richness, crispness, and freshness.

Minerals are crucial for grapevine health as they help produce ATP, the energy-carrying molecules that power cell growth, recovery, photosynthesis, and ultimately, grape ripening. Elements like sulphur, iron, and nitrogen are vital for amino acid production, which in turn supports protein synthesis—essential for grapevine growth.

Although minerals play a key role in soil fertility, balance, and the natural biochemical processes of the vine, the grapevine’s metabolism functions through osmosis. This process only allows the exchange of positively charged ions with negatively charged ones. As a result, solid minerals themselves are not absorbed directly by the vine or the grapes; only the ions from these minerals are utilized.

Region 3: Santorini

Santorini was once dominated by a central volcano, but a massive eruption around 1600 BC transformed it into the circular archipelago we see today. It wasn’t until the 8th century that the island was permanently inhabited again.

A strong, dry wind called ‘Ostria,’ blowing from Africa, carries volcanic ash that can harm young vines. To protect against this, the vines are pruned into a unique basket shape known as ‘Kouloura.’ This technique shields the grapes from the wind while also providing shade and reducing evaporation.

We tasted 4 wines from Santorini:

Santo Wines (Santorini Assyrtiko 2023)

A classic dry Santorini wine made from 100% Assyrtiko. It is crisp with high acidity, featuring dominant citrus aromas, and subtle hints of green bell pepper and stone fruit.

Gaia (Santorini Thalassitis 2023)

Made from 100% Assyrtiko with low yields to concentrate flavors. Fermented in steel tanks to preserve natural fruitiness, this wine presents vibrant citrus, tropical fruit aromas, and a touch of honey.

Sigalas (Santorini Assyrtiko 2023)

100% Assyrtiko, fermented in stainless steel tanks and aged on the lees for at least 4 months. The result is a pale lemon-colored wine with refreshing citrus aromas, along with hints of peach and floral notes.

Santo Wines (Santorini Nykteri 2023)

Nykteri, meaning “night,” refers to the nighttime harvest. This blend of 85% Assyrtiko, 10% Athiri, and 5% Aidani is aged in French oak for 3–5 months, resulting in a rounded wine with crisp acidity and balanced flavors of stone fruit, melon, and floral aromas.

The Effect of Minerals on Wine

In conclusion, while “minerality” is a widely used term in wine descriptions, it has never been scientifically proven that minerals directly influence the taste or aromas of wine. However, minerals do have a significant impact on other factors that indirectly affect wine’s aromas and quality, such as:

• Nitrogen: Stimulates growth of the plant’s green parts and is essential for photosynthesis, influencing sugar levels in grapes.
• Potassium: Aids in water uptake and strengthens the plant’s resistance to diseases and drought.
• Phosphorus: Supports energy transfer, plant growth, and reproduction.
• Aluminium: In low-pH soils, it can limit water and nutrient uptake, potentially harming vine health.
• Magnesium: Crucial for photosynthesis and water retention in the soil. Deficiency can cause leaves to yellow, reducing photosynthesis and grape yield.
• Sulphur: Necessary for protein production.
• Calcium: Improves soil structure and prevents acidification.
• Iron: Essential for photosynthesis.
• Mica: Helps retain water and nutrients, enhancing soil fertility and maintaining vine health.

The Role of Minerals in Volcanic Terroirs and Wine Quality

While “minerality” is a commonly used term in wine descriptions, the aromas associated with it do not come directly from the minerals in the soil. However, volcanic soils are rich in minerals, each playing a vital role in the growth and development of grapevines. These minerals contribute to the unique terroirs of volcanic regions, and when combined with the craftsmanship of winemakers, result in distinctive, high-quality wines.

This article is written by our own Michelle van de Vosse. We like to thank the Volcanic Agriculture of Europe association and Fred Nijhuis for organizing this Masterclass. Also, we thank Restaurant de Rozario (Helmond) for their hospitality and the amazing lunch provided after the Masterclass.