Central Loire: More than Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé.

The Loire Valley, often called the “Garden of France” for its natural beauty, agricultural abundance, and historical richness, stretches along the longest river in France (1,006 kilometers). As the third-largest wine-producing area in the country, it offers a diverse range of wines that reflect its unique terroir and heritage. Our own Judi Veldwijk was fortunate enough to explore this remarkable region with Vins du Centre-Loire on behalf of Dutch Wine Apprentice. Join her for a tour!

The Loire Region, Large and Diverse

The wine region Loire is divided into three main areas:

• Lower Loire (Pays Nantais); Muscadet.
• Middle Loire: Anjou, Saumur, Touraine, Chinon, Vouvray and Bourgueil.
• Upper Loire (or Centre): Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé, Menetou-Salon, Quincy and Reuilly.

This article focuses on the Central Loire area, as we experienced it during our recent visit. During our journey, we discovered the region’s diverse terroirs and its stunning beauty, realizing there is so much more to explore. While Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé are the renowned appellations, we will also delve into the lesser-known regions.

Central Loire: Home of Sauvignon Blanc

Unlike other parts of the Loire, the Central Loire area has a more continental climate, not directly influenced by the Atlantic Ocean. This climate is particularly beneficial for Sauvignon Blanc, which occupies 80% of the 6,000 hectares of vineyards. The Centre-Loire is the birthplace of Sauvignon Blanc, where it reveals its most beautiful expressions influenced by the terroir. Typically, Sauvignon Blanc from this region features fresh fruit and herbal notes (mainly grass), with tropical fruit nuances like passion fruit and mango, especially in warmer vintages.

However, winemakers now face challenges in keeping sugar levels low, resulting in higher alcohol content (around 14%). Rising temperatures lead to quicker grape ripening, which can cause higher alcohol levels and lower acidity, affecting the wine’s balance and typical profile. To address this, SICAVAC (Interprofessional Service of Agronomic Advice, Vinifications, and Analyses of the Center) has been experimenting with different rootstocks, aiming for an alcohol by volume (ABV) level of 10%. Hopefully, they will succeed in their efforts.

Central Loire: A Family of Terroirs

The 695 winegrowers in the Central Loire region form a collective with a shared purpose: to showcase the diverse terroirs and the legacy of authentic wine-growing culture. The soils in this area reveal its ancient history as a seabed, once inhabited by waves, dolphins, and even whales. Sedimentary limestone rock of marine origin forms the foundation of the vineyards. This includes Kimmeridgian marl covered by “griottes” (clay-limestone, locally called Terres Blanches) and gravel, along with the distinctive silex soil unique to this region.

How do these soil types influence the wine? As many of you know, soil texture significantly impacts a wine’s characteristics, and the same holds true in the Central Loire. Depending on the soil, grape varieties express themselves differently:

• Silex: We had the chance to taste two silex producers side-by-side. Tasting a Sauvignon Blanc grown in silex soil, you will immediately recognize the firestone notes. Silex imparts minerality and elegance to the wine.
• Limestone: Provides freshness and aromatic character.
• Sands and gravels: Contribute freshness, fruitiness, and saltiness.
• Clay-limestone (Kimmeridgian): Makes the wines more refreshing and rounder.

Châteaumeillant Thinks Outside-the-Box

Châteaumeillant is the newest appellation in the Centre Loire, achieving AOC status in 2010. Located in the southern part of the region, Châteaumeillant stands out from its neighboring appellations with its focus on red and rosé wines, predominantly made from Gamay and Pinot Noir grapes. The area’s climate is slightly warmer compared to other Centre Loire appellations like Pouilly-Sur-Loire and Cotes de la Charité, allowing for fuller ripening of red grapes. This results in wines that are typically lighter in body and more fruit-forward, with red berry flavors and a soft, approachable profile.

Unlike the predominantly white wine-focused appellations of the Centre Loire, such as Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé known for their Sauvignon Blancs, Châteaumeillant offers a refreshing emphasis on reds and rosés, adding unique diversity to the Loire Valley’s wine landscape.

Other lesser-known appellations include Quincy, Reuilly, Menetou-Salon, Coteaux du Giennois, and Coteaux de Tannay.

One of the Steepest Slopes in the Central Loire: Le Monts Damés

Le Monts Damés, located in the Sancerre appellation of the Central Loire region, is renowned for being one of the steepest vineyard slopes in the area. Part of Domaine Vincent Pinard, this vineyard excellently reflects the terroir, characterized by flinty (silex) soils. The dramatic incline offers advantages such as better sun exposure, drainage, and enhanced terroir expression, leading to high-quality, complex wines. However, it also presents challenges like higher labor costs, soil erosion, and increased maintenance requirements, making vineyard management crucial.

Harvest 2024: Can Winemakers Save It?

During our visit to the Central Loire, it became evident that climate change is significantly impacting the region. Grapes now contain more sugar, and disease levels have surged due to excessive rainfall. Julie Nérot, owner of Cave Nérot in Coteaux du Giennois, is struggling with severe mildew issues. “The wind needs to blow; otherwise, part of this year’s harvest will be lost,” she remarked. Currently, various winemakers are using copper-based fungicides, such as Bordeaux mixture (a combination of copper sulfate and lime), to combat mildew, with hopes that these measures will be successful.

Additionally, the region has been experimenting with other techniques to treat diseases. One innovative method used to combat trunk diseases like Esca and Eutypa is curettage. This process involves surgically removing diseased wood from grapevine trunks and arms to preserve and extend the life of the vines. It starts with identifying symptomatic vines, making an incision to expose the wood, and meticulously excavating the infected areas. After removal, the exposed wood is treated with a disinfectant to prevent re-infection, allowing the vine to heal naturally. This technique represents a promising approach to vineyard management.

Embrace the Central Loire: it is more than Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé!

Through this trip, we discovered that the Central Loire boasts incredible diversity beyond the famous names of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé. From the unique reds and rosés of Châteaumeillant to the crisp, mineral whites of Quincy and Reuilly, each area in the Central Loire contributes its own distinct character to the region’s wines. This vibrant wine region is a must-visit for gaining a deeper understanding of its offerings. The winemakers here are preserving traditional methods while also employing innovative techniques to address climate challenges. We are excited to see what comes next in this dynamic region!

This article is written by our own Judi Veldwijk. We would like to thank Vins du Centre-Loire, in particular Camille Roblin, and the wineries we visited for their hospitality and insights. We also thank Business France, Michèle Lainé, for their invitation.