Papageno 2021 – Weingut Allram.
In this review we are going back to Austria for a refreshing Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc) named “Papageno” by Weingut Allram, located in the heart of Austria, the Kamptal region.
About the Winery
Weingut Allram has a tradition in winemaking that goes back over 4 generations now. Being in Austria their core wines are Riesling and Grüner Veltliner, but they are also quite comfortable with producing red wines like one of Austria’s local varieties Zweigelt, or whites based on this French varietal Pinot Blanc (named as Weissburgunder). In total they work over 30 hectares of vineyards.
Many individual and strong characters define the wines of the Allram family. A product of experience and skill. This journey started with Walter Allram, who in the fifties dared to convert the farm into a winery and continued with Michaela Haas-Allram and Erich Haas who took over the winery and ventured into export. The attention to detail and quality was passed on to every generation. Today, Lorenz and his sister Magdalena are pursuing the passion for quality and are converting the winery step by step to organic farming.
About the Region
Austria’s Kamptal is unique. The reason for this uniqueness? It benefits from two climatic zones that could not be more different: a dry and hot Pannonian climate is met by harsh and cold weather from the northern Waldviertel area. This means the vineyards experience hot temperatures during the day and a cool phase at night.
This is perfect for growing grapes because this interplay of temperatures gives them grapes their aromatic finesse and lively acidity. The unique topography further enriches our wines, as the Kamptal opens to the warm Danube valley and closes itself off from north.
The soil is rich of minerals and can be very different from place to place, rich of stones and chalk rich Löss (a clay soil type) it has great conditions to nurture and water the vines. From place to place there are even old volcanic soils that bring beautiful added richness and complexity.
About the Wine
Weissburgunder on its own is a variety capable of very approachable wines, it has elements of acidity and freshness but also a pretty light body and character. This Papageno is no exception to that.
In the glass a bright lively colour. As mentioned this is a fresh and fruity wine that possess some of the qualities that make a good wine. On the nose primarily (stone) fruit notes, combining citrus, pear and apple but also some more exotic examples. On the palette acidity lines-out the wine and provides good structure. It gives the wine a savory component which plays well into its gastronomical capabilities. A medium body and intensity at an ABV of 12.5%. Concluded by a little bitterness in the aftertaste. Some people might say the variety creates a lot of “middle of the road” wines, but this example shows that with the right work and attention it can lift itself up.
Conclusion: A subtle and nicely layered wine at an excellent price. Very food friendly and appealing to a large audience. To be enjoyed at a lower temperature, fresh and young, taken the best from the fruit notes and minerality.
Papageno is part of this month’s VINVIN Favourite Box, and also available by the bottle. You can find it through this link. Available in The Netherlands for €17,89 per individual bottle.
Taste date: November 2022
Score: 88/100 DWA Score
Website: Weingut Allram