Muehlforst Vieilles Vignes Riesling 2019 – Domaine Eblin-Fuchs.
In this review we are visiting France’s Alsace region, as we visit the family affair of Domaine Eblin-Fuchs through an old-vine Riesling, the 2019 Muehlforst Vieilles Vignes by Domaine Eblin-Fuchs.
About the Winery
This is the story of two families, who confided in Zellenberg as the place to be making wine. Those who have visited Alsace know that Zellenberg is a natural hill that perfectly highlights the village. It was a marriage between Marie Madeleine Fuchs and Henri Joseph Eblin around 1956 that fused these two families together into the winemaking team Eblin Fuchs. Whereas the Eblin genealogical tree goes back to the 13th century, the Fuchs family dates back to the 17th century. The Fuchs family was installed in Zellenberg as winemakers at that time already.
This fused family has now been making wines that have character, vivacity and authenticity. Adding to that, they have been biodynamic since the change of the century. Therefore, listening to nature is something that they believe in religiously. Not only do they listen to nature, they also know very well how to work the unique terroirs that they have.
About the Vineyard
On the opposite side of the Rosacker Grand Cru, the Muehlforst finds its Genesis. Should you find yourself contently promenading from Ribeauvillé to Hunawihr, you will naturally cross a part of this vineyard. It is a very gentle hill/slope down, with an abundance of sunshine, leaving Riesling as well as Gewurztraminer very happy to be there. It is hotter than the counterpart Hellfant and Rosacker as it is more distant from the cooling effects of the forest. The marl and limestone soils dominate this vineyard.
About the Wine
Visually this is wine is as basic as possible; pale lemon. The aromas however are much less basic, they include a delightful and frivolous mix of minerality, citrus fruit, fresh tropical fruit and honey. We see petroleum here as well, something truly admirable for this price point! The candied lemon, as well as orange and grapefruit make of this wine a cheerful one.
On the palate we note true medium Riesling aromas and a relatively full body for Riesling. The rest of the palate is as perfectly authentic as Riesling in Alsace.
This authenticity and character are in sync with the price point, synchronizing into a wine to be drunk daily as well as on special occasions. Therefore, both cherish this wine, as simply drink it! This Riesling is suitable for ageing, and would most likely increase in its terroir part of the scent and aroma.
We award this Riesling with a 90-point DWA score.
Taste date: December 2023
Score: 90/100 DWA Score
Website: Eblin Fuchs