Grüner Veltliner 2021 Ried Reipersberg – Gruber Röschitz.
In this review Austria’s main grape, Grüner Veltliner! We are reviewing a single vineyard (Ried) version named “Ried Reipersberg” produced by Weingut Gruber Röschitz, located in Austria’s region Weinviertel.
About the Grape
This white grape is known for producing fresh and vibrant wines, slightly peppery and always packed with citrus. You can drink it young and fresh but with some barrel aging it has the potential to be stored away in your cellar for years!
Some say that Grüner has been planted in Austria since the Roman empire, though there has not been found anything writings about it dating back to that period. The first writings in Austria date back to the 19th century, but it gained success in the mid 20th century. Grüner Veltliner is born by crossing Traminer and St Georgener and is not related to the other traminers we know. About 30% of all vineyards in Austria are planted with Grüner Veltliner, and with these numbers it is considered as their main variety for white wines.
About the Winery
Gruber Röschitz is led by two generations, father and son, (both are called Ewald) who produce all of their wines biologically. The winery is located in Weinviertel, which is one of the 4 states of Niederosterreich. It is close to the Czech Republic and Slovakian border, and the biggest wine region in Austria. The region is also known for the löss terroirs.
Ewald Senior is in charge of the vineyards, with their different microclimates and terroirs. The grapes are planted from West to East, so the leaves protect the plants from sunburn. While Ewald junior is in charge of the cellar and the winemaking. He is not a big fan of the use of oak, as he likes to keep the terroir freshness in the wines. But he is a big fan of leaving the lees in the wine to give it a bit of structure and body.
At Gruber they are definitely letting the new generation take over, check their Pepp! wines for example, which are designed to be liked by a whole new generation of young wine drinkers. It is definitely a winery that is not afraid to change and renew, and that is something you can taste!
About the Wine
Now let us look at the 2021 vintage of this Ried Reipersberg Grüner Veltliner.
When we look at the wine we see a clear and very light gold yellow wine, with what the Germans would call a slight “Spründel” in the glass. The wine is made of 60-year-old vines, which catch sun till late in the afternoon, this allows them to ripen slowly. The grapes are harvested mid-October and ferment for 10 hours in Inox tanks. We smell a perfectly clear Grüner Veltliner with ripe apple, some Granny Smith, a lot of citrus, grapefruit, lime and even some fennel. When we open the wine in our glass it gives away the smell of green bell peppers and unripe plums as well.
Taste wise the wine is exactly what we think a Grüner Veltliner should be, fresh, vibrant, juicy and peppery in the finish. A lot of clean fresh white fruit such as pear, apple and lime. In the middle the wine adds a bit of plums and apricot to our palate and in the finish a well-balanced but spicy peppery tone.
Wow this wine is certainly Grüner Veltliner at its best. From the fruity juiciness in the first sip, till the peppery medium aftertaste in the end, this wine is phenomenal and perfectly made. The balance is just spot on and the freshness keeps you wanting more and more.
This “King” of Austria would pair perfectly well with our “Queen” of vegetables; the white asparagus. But we would not mind this glass of wine with a nice and creamy risotto or a spicy fish ceviche either. Well done Ewald & Ewald!
This review is written for us by our own Martijn Coenen. The wine, and other wines from Gruber Röschitz, are imported by Vinites.
Taste date: January 2023
Score: 94/100 DWA Score
Website: Gruber Röschitz