Burg 2016 – Domaine Marcel Deiss.
France’s Alsace region is known for their great white wines, ranging from noble sweet to dry and every type in-between. What makes this region so special is the terroir. Probably nowhere in France does terroir play such an important role, especially the soil component.
One of the well-established names in the Alsatian wine scene is Domaine Marcel Deiss. They produce top of the line wines, with great diversity, representing the unique character of this French region. In this review we are discussing one of their Premier Cru wines, the 2016 Burg by Domaine Marcel Deiss.
About the Winery
“When Alsatian Wine Returns to its Origins” the motto of Domaine Marcel Deiss (Est. 1947). And this pretty much sums it up. It shows in their terroir and vineyards, in their grape growing and wine making and ultimately in their wines. It is like time stood still at this estate, although this is was very much a deliberate choice.
The Marcel Deiss estate, located in Bergheim, in the heart of the Ribeauvillé fault field, derives its originality from the assiduous practice of biodynamic viticulture throughout the 32-hectares of vineyards, producing low-yield wines obtained by returning to the old Alsatian wine-growing tradition of the complantation. This art of bringing together different grape varieties that all adapted to the vineyard, is the only way to obtain real stability in the personality of each terroir.
About the Vineyard
The “Burg” Vineyard is classified as Premier Cru and planted between 1977 and 1997. It is located in Bergheim and has full southern exposure and a protected location in the rear of the valley. The climate it enjoys is rather cool, which leads to a relatively late harvest. Its soils contain mixed Keuper marls and rare calcareous intercalations.
All these characteristics add to the vineyards ability to provide for complex and well-structured wines, made for ageing.
About the Wine
A field blend of 13 regional favorites including Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir and Riesling. The wine is fermented and aged in large old foudres for 12 months after which it remains in the Deiss cellar for 5 more years before being released.
This a wine of contraction, off dry of taste but the deep golden colour and expressive nose show you a whole different side. Given the vintage it has seen some ageing, which in combination with the rich blend has deepened the colour nicely. The same can be said for the nose which is rich in profile, combing fruit and floral notes with minerality. An inviting smell that sucks you into the wine. On the palette the fruit seems to get juicier and the fatty oily structure with strong viscosity is what makes the wine “stick to your tongue”. A little sweetness, but the freshness and a hint of bitterness seem to control this very well. The latter is what dominates the long aftertaste, which makes a wine to remember.
Conclusion: The wines of Marcel Deiss are like masterpieces of the old Dutch Masters. Colorful, lively, warm and romantic, perfect in expressing the unique terroir of the Alsace. This wine is what its roots give it, combined with the work and loving hands of the people in the vineyard and winery.
So much happening at the same time but it is works magnificently. All the contrasts are here, which make a truly unique and complex wine. Class work delivered creating this Alsatian gem, which has good potential to age and even further transform itself. Being at Premier Cru level one can only wonder what its bigger Grand Cru brothers are left with to surprise us with.
Food & Wine Pairing
The first thing that comes to mind is a pairing with some baked foie gras, or you could try some duck (preferable with sweet ingredients like orange or mango). And what about pairing this with blue cheese or a sweet dessert? Crêpes Suzette with some vanilla ice cream will match perfectly, or slice up some apple and bake it in a frying pan, sprinkled with some white sugar and cinnamon. Either way this wine can work miracles.
This wine is available online at Wijn aan de Zaan.
Taste date: December 2022
Score: 94/100 DWA Score
Website: Domaine Marcel Deiss