2018 Ballard Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon – DuMOL.
For this review we are venturing into Sonoma County, California. DuMOL is one of the region’s leading producers that has an impressive selection of wines, ranging from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay to Cabernet and Syrah. In this review we discuss their Ballard Cabernet Sauvignon, a single vineyard wine from the Spring Mountain District.
About the Winery
DuMOL Winery, situated in the heart of Sonoma County, is a shining star in California’s wine scene. Established in 1996, this boutique winery has carved a niche for itself through meticulous attention to terroir and a dedication to crafting wines that elegantly reflect the unique character of each vineyard. With a focus on limited-production wines, DuMOL is renowned for its Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, though its Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon also garner high praise.
DuMOL’s vineyards span Sonoma County’s cooler climates, particularly the Russian River Valley, a region celebrated for producing world-class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The winery’s commitment to sustainable farming practices ensures that the grapes reflect the natural harmony of the land, leading to expressive, balanced wines.
The winemaking process is a combination of traditional techniques with modern precision. DuMOL’s winemaker, Andy Smith, oversees the entire process with an artisan’s touch, from vineyard management to the careful blending and aging in French oak. Smith emphasizes a “hands-off” approach, allowing the grapes to speak for themselves while ensuring they are nurtured with minimal intervention.
About the Vineyard
The Ballard Vineyard, located in the Spring Mountain District, is a prime site for Cabernet Sauvignon, offering a cool climate that brings out the varietal’s complexity and depth. Coombsville is known for its volcanic soils, which contribute to the mineral character and structure of the wines produced here. The cool air from San Pablo Bay helps moderate temperatures, allowing for a longer growing season. This extended ripening period ensures that the grapes develop full flavor profiles while retaining a natural acidity, which is crucial for crafting wines with both freshness and age-worthiness.
Ballard Vineyard sits on well-draining, rocky soils rich in volcanic ash and alluvial deposits, which not only stress the vines in a healthy way but also enhance the concentration of fruit flavors. These soils give the wine a distinctive mineral edge that complements the bold fruit and savory undertones. The vineyard’s southeastern exposure provides ample sunlight, ensuring optimal ripeness while maintaining balance in the final wine.
About the Wine
DuMOL’s winemaking approach is one of precision and restraint, with an emphasis on allowing the vineyard’s terroir to shine through in each bottle. This Cabernet Sauvignon was crafted under the guidance of DuMOL’s winemaker, Andy Smith, whose philosophy of minimal intervention ensures that the true character of the fruit is preserved. Grapes are harvested at optimal ripeness, hand-sorted to ensure only the best fruit makes it into the fermenters, and fermented in small lots to maintain control over every aspect of the process.
After fermentation, the wine is aged in French oak barrels, 57% of which are new, for 20 months. This careful barrel selection allows the wine to develop its structure and integrate complex flavors of vanilla, baking spices, and subtle toast, without overpowering the fruit or disrupting the balance. The oak enhances the wine’s textural complexity, contributing to its silky tannins and long finish, while also providing a framework for aging. Throughout the process, the goal is to craft a wine that speaks to the vineyard’s unique characteristics while offering a seamless balance of power and elegance.
At first, the 2018 Ballard Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon greets the nose with a beguiling bouquet of sweet bay leaf and violet, setting a floral tone that is as inviting as it is sophisticated. As the wine opens, an intriguing array of aromas—sassafras, juniper, and subtle mint—layer beautifully with the deep core of fruit, providing a complex aromatic profile that evolves with time in the glass.
On the palate, this Cabernet Sauvignon is nothing short of captivating. Lush flavors of steeped plum and ripe blackberry dominate the mid-palate, with a touch of pomegranate adding brightness. While the fruit is generous and expressive, it’s perfectly balanced by savory undertones of iron and spice, which lend structure and a distinct mineral edge. These elements combine seamlessly to give the wine both depth and lift, making it feel weighty without being overbearing.
One of the defining features of the 2018 Ballard is its texture. The tannins are incredibly refined—silky and well-integrated, adding a sense of sensuality and finesse to the wine’s bold character. Despite its richness, the wine remains beautifully fresh, with a vibrant acidity that keeps it lively and ensures a long, clean finish. The interplay between the fruit, spice, and floral notes, framed by these smooth tannins, provides an overall sense of balance and precision.
While the 2018 DuMOL Ballard Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon is highly approachable in its youth, it is clear that this is a wine built to age gracefully. The iron edge and minerality, combined with its firm tannic backbone, suggest that it will continue to develop and evolve over the next 10–15 years. Those who enjoy their Cabernets with more tertiary notes will find the wine’s subtle complexity only increasing with cellaring.
The 2018 Ballard Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon is a stunning representation of DuMOL’s commitment to producing world-class wines that reflect their vineyard’s terroir with clarity and grace. This wine is bold yet refined, offering the perfect balance of power and finesse. Effusive and aromatic, it delivers layers of vibrant berry fruit alongside floral and savory undertones, creating an intoxicating drinking experience. Its silky tannins and bright acidity ensure an elegant structure, making it a sublime wine both now and for years to come.
Should you open up this bottle now be sure to give it some time and air to breathe. Decanting it for about an hour in advance and serving it in a bigger glass will do it well! Best is to give it some more time in your cellar. This is a wine that will show an interesting development in the next decade, when stored properly.
We happily reward this single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon with a 94-point DWA score.
This review is written by our own Niels Aarts. The wines of DuMOL are sold in the Netherlands through Best of Wines, and also online available in their webshop for international customers.
Price: €119,79
Taste date: June 2024
Score: 94/100 DWA Score
Website: DuMOL