Chefs & Cellars: Dining at Het Broederenklooster
Situated in the historical city of Zutphen, Het Broederenklooster is not just a restaurant; it’s a testament to the harmonious marriage of rich history and modern culinary artistry. Within the walls of a monastery dating back to 1292, Chef Niels van Dooijeweert orchestrates a menu that weaves the precision of classic French cuisine with innovative global influences. Here, history is not only preserved in the architecture but also celebrated through a meticulously curated wine list that complements the chef’s creations.
For our Podcast ‘Chefs and Cellars’ we sat down with Niels, to talk about this beautiful restaurant, which he runs together with his wife Marieke. Join us as Niels shares his philosophy on food and shares his personal passion for wine.
Historical Elegance and Culinary Precision
The Broederenklooster’s storied past as a monastery, school, and wartime refuge adds layers of narrative depth to the dining experience. Chef Niels and his wife, Marieke, have meticulously restored the building, ensuring that every element from the arched windows to the stone walls tells a story of resilience and transformation. “We’ve embraced the building’s history, incorporating it into the experience of dining here, allowing our guests to feel a connection to the past while enjoying the comforts and cuisine of the present,” Niels explains. In its new function the monastery not only houses the restaurant but also doubles as a hotel, offering guests the ultimate getaway with 15 deluxe rooms.
Niels’s Culinary Philosophy: A Fusion of Tradition and Innovation
Niels embarked on his culinary journey when he was just 12 years old, drawn to the bustling markets of Utrecht, which ignited his passion for exceptional ingredients. His career evolved through a series of prestigious kitchens, most notably the Michelin-starred Koetshuis in Bennekom. It was here that he refined his skills under the guidance of his future father-in-law (the late Wicher Löhr) and met his future wife, Marieke. Together, they launched Het Broederenklooster, a seamless blend of their personal and professional lives.
Trained in the storied traditions of French cuisine across various Michelin-starred European kitchens, Niels has mastered classic techniques like sauce-making and meticulous ingredient selection. “The essence of great cooking starts with its traditions,” he explains. Despite this strong foundation, Niels’s culinary repertoire transcends European borders, incorporating diverse ingredients from Asia to South America, offering diners a global gastronomic experience from the comfort of their seats.
The Wine Narrative
Integral to the dining experience at Het Broederenklooster is its extensive wine selection, which Niels approaches with as much passion and precision as his cuisine. “Wine is more than a beverage at Het Broederenklooster; it’s a narrative element that enhances the storytelling of our dishes,” Niels articulates. The wine list is carefully crafted to pair seamlessly with the nuanced flavors of the menu, with each bottle chosen under Niels’s discerning eye.
Niels’s preference leans towards classic regions known for their structured and complex profiles, such as Bordeaux, Burgundy, and the Rhône Valley. “I have a deep appreciation for the old-world wines for their complexity and the way they complement our food,” he shares. However, the wine list is not confined to European selections; it includes notable bottles from across the globe, including vibrant Rieslings from Germany and robust reds from the Napa Valley, reflecting the international spirit of their menu.
The selection process involves tasting and evaluating each wine to ensure it meets the restaurant’s high standards and aligns with Niels’s vision for the perfect pairing. “Each wine on our list has been personally tasted and selected. This ensures that our guests enjoy a wine that is not only of the highest quality but also enhances their meal,” Niels explains. This meticulous approach to wine curation is guided by both taste and thematic alignment with the dishes served, creating a harmonious dining experience that is both grounded in tradition and adventurous in scope.
The Lunch
The lunch we shared with Niels at Het Broederenklooster was a wonderfully curated experience that balanced the reverence of tradition with a daring culinary edge.
We began with a symbolic and contemplative aperitif: The body of Christ in the form of a host, paired with red wine and a striking blue Stilton. This was immediately followed by a rich and luxurious creamy foie gras, enhanced by the delicate sweetness of Frangelico and hazelnut, and finally, a playful deconstructed Caprese.
The amuse-bouche set the tone for what was to follow: Roasted octopus with capers, saffron foam, and a crispy black olive—an intricate and balanced dish where every element contributed to the overall harmony.
For the starter, Niels served raw marinated sea bream complemented by a creamy yellow curry dressing. The fish was accompanied by a refreshing salad of bok choy, spring onion, and crispy rice noodles—a bold fusion of textures and flavors that exemplified Niels’s global culinary influences.
The main course was a masterful preparation of Dover sole, paired with Zeeland mussels, salty vegetables, and a luxurious langoustine bisque. The careful execution of this dish, coupled with the diverse flavors of land and sea, demonstrated Niels’s meticulous attention to detail and ingredient quality.
Each course reflected Niels’s passion for crafting dishes that not only satisfy but engage the senses, inviting diners into a narrative where every bite and sip plays a role in telling the story of Het Broederenklooster.
Featured Wine: 2017 Château Giscours
During our visit, Niels shared a special bottle that holds a dear place in his heart—the 2017 Château Giscours from Margaux, a storied wine region in Bordeaux. This particular vintage is known for its robust structure and layers of complex flavors.
The choice of this wine is deeply personal for Niels; it connects to his past experiences and the memories he cherishes. “This wine holds a special place in my heart,” Niels shares, reflecting on its significance. “It’s a wine that brings back memories of celebrations and milestones.” The story goes back to his father-in-law, who introduced him to this wine. At each significant family event or professional achievement, a bottle of Château Giscours was opened to celebrate, instilling a tradition that Niels continues to this day.
The 2017 Chateau Giscours exhibits an alluring bouquet of dark berries, violets, and subtle oak nuances, leading to a palate that is both robust and refined. The wine’s classic structure and lingering finish make it an excellent companion to the Broederenklooster’s rich, flavorful dishes. Niels specifically highlights how well it pairs with their signature dishes that feature complex sauces and savory meats. “The tannins in the wine cut through the richness of the food, enhancing both the dish and the drink,” he explains.
Our review of the Wine
The 2017 Château Giscours is an impressive wine from the heart of the Margaux appellation in Bordeaux, showcasing the estate’s hallmark style of balance, finesse, and complexity. Despite the challenging vintage conditions, this third growth estate has managed to craft a wine that captivates with its charm and depth, making it a standout in the Margaux region.
In the glass, the wine presents a deep ruby color with slight garnet hues on the rim, indicating the start of its maturity. The clarity and brightness suggest a well-crafted wine that is developing beautifully over time.
The aromatic profile is immediately inviting, with layers of dark fruits such as blackcurrants, blackberries, and plums. These are complemented by more complex notes of cedar, tobacco, and subtle floral undertones—typical of Margaux wines. As it opens, there are hints of dried herbs, spices, and earthy minerality, providing depth and intrigue to the bouquet.
On the palate, Château Giscours 2017 is medium to full-bodied, with fine, well-integrated tannins that give the wine a smooth, velvety texture. The fruit profile is consistent with the nose, dominated by ripe black fruits, while secondary notes of graphite, tobacco leaf, and a touch of cocoa add complexity. The wine has a bright acidity that balances the richness of the fruit, keeping it fresh and lively. Oak influence is present but subtle, lending a gentle spiciness and a creamy texture without overpowering the fruit.
The finish is long and lingering, with notes of blackcurrants, minerals, and a delicate touch of violets. There’s a satisfying structure and balance that suggests this wine will continue to evolve over the next decade, making it a great candidate for cellaring.
Wine Education and Engagement
Beyond serving wine, Niels is passionate about wine education and engagement with his guests. Het Broederenklooster often hosts wine tasting events and winemaker dinners, which provide an immersive experience into the world of wine. “These events are opportunities for our guests to deepen their understanding of wine, discover new favourites, and see the incredible synergy between the food and wine,” Niels comments.
A Harmonious Blend of History, Flavor, and Wine
At The Broederenklooster, every meal is an exploration of flavors and history. Niels and Marieke van Dooijeweert have created a space where the past and present coalesce into a singular dining experience. Here, the wines are not just drunk; they are experienced, discussed, and enjoyed as integral components of the culinary narrative. For anyone visiting Zutphen, Het Broederenklooster offers a unique opportunity to dine in a historical setting enriched with the flavors and stories of wines from around the world.
Chefs and Cellars
Niels is our guest in the first episode of our podcast Chefs and Cellars, which will be released shortly. Click here to read more about this podcast.
This article is written by our own Niels Aarts. We would like to thank Niels and Marieke van Dooijeweert and Het Broederenklooster for their contribution to this article and the excellent lunch.
