Piedmont’s Hidden Wine Gems Shaping Dutch Menus.
Piedmont, a renowned wine-producing region in Northern Italy, is celebrated for its unique grape varieties and high-quality wines. The region’s rich history of winemaking, combined with the innovation of modern winemakers, has made it a key player on the global wine stage. When paired with contemporary Dutch cuisine, the marriage of these two cultures creates an unparalleled gastronomic experience. In this article, we explore Piedmontese wines, their history, distinctive grapes, and how they complement Dutch gastronomy.
Our own Barbora Peterikova reports back from an interesting lunch full of learnings at Restaurant Pollevie, organized by Fred Nijhuis in collaboration with I Vini del Piemonte.
A Brief History of Piedmontese Wines
Piedmont’s winemaking history stretches back to the Roman era. However, it wasn’t until the 19th century that the region’s wines, particularly Barolo and Barbaresco, gained prominence. These wines owe much of their character to Nebbiolo, the grape variety at the heart of the region. In the mid-19th century, figures like Francesco Staglieno pioneered the dry, still style of Barolo, which evolved from the previously sweet and lightly sparkling versions.
Over time, Piedmont refined its winemaking practices, with Barolo and Barbaresco gaining DOC status in 1966 and DOCG in 1980, marking their superior quality. Modern winemaking in the region saw a revolution in the 1990s with the rise of the “Barolo Boys,” a group of winemakers who introduced aging in small French oak barrels, adding complexity to the already distinguished Nebbiolo wines.
The Geographical Context of Piedmontese Wines
The Piedmont region spans 25,400 square kilometers and is home to 4.4 million people. The area’s diverse topography, with its rolling hills and mountain ranges, creates distinct microclimates ideal for viticulture. With a vineyard area of almost 45.000 hectares, Piedmont’s wine production is predominantly red, comprising about 58% of the total output. Impressively, 95% of the region’s production holds DOP status, a testament to the high standards of Piedmontese winemaking.
Piedmont’s Notable Wine-Producing Areas
Piedmont is divided into several distinct wine-producing areas, each with its own specialties:
- Monferrato: Known for its DOCG Nizza and Gavi, as well as the rising star Timorasso.
- L’Astigiano: Famous for Barbera, Moscato, Brachetto, and Ruchè di Castagnole.
- Alto Piemonte: Home to DOPs like Ghemme and Gattinara.
- Roero: Renowned for its Roero Arneis DOCG.
- Langhe: World-famous for Barolo, Barbaresco, and Nascetta.
Local Grape Varieties: The Pride of Piedmont
Piedmont is home to an impressive array of indigenous grape varieties, many of which are rarely found outside of the region. These varieties reflect the rich biodiversity of the area and the centuries-old traditions that have shaped its winemaking culture. Below, we explore the key grape varieties that define Piedmontese wines, as well as some lesser-known but increasingly important grapes.
Major Piedmontese Grapes
Nebbiolo
Nebbiolo is without a doubt the most important grape in Piedmont and is responsible for some of Italy’s greatest wines, including Barolo and Barbaresco. The grape derives its name from the Italian word nebbia, meaning fog, a reference to the frequent mist that covers the vineyards during harvest time. Known for its strong tannins and high acidity, Nebbiolo produces wines that are capable of long aging, developing complex aromas of dried flowers, red fruit, and earthy spices. Some of its regional aliases include Spanna, Chiavennasca, and Prünent.
Barbera
Barbera is the most planted grape in Piedmont, offering high acidity with lower tannins compared to Nebbiolo. This makes it an ideal food wine, as its bright fruit flavours (typically red berries and cherries) and lively acidity complement a wide range of dishes. It is commonly produced in the Barbera d’Asti DOCG and Barbera d’Alba DOC appellations. Barbera is known for its versatility and reliability, offering excellent quality across a variety of price points.
Dolcetto
Translating to “little sweet one,” Dolcetto is anything but sweet. Known for its lower acidity and pronounced tannins, Dolcetto wines are generally soft, fruity, and meant to be enjoyed young. Dolcetto di Dogliani and Dolcetto d’Alba are two of the most celebrated DOCG wines produced from this grape, offering approachable, fruit-forward expressions of Piedmontese winemaking.
Arneis
A white grape from the Roero region, Arneis is known for its aromatic profile with hints of pear, apricot, and white flowers. Often referred to as “Nebbiolo’s little brother,” Arneis was historically planted alongside Nebbiolo vines to attract birds away from the precious red grapes. It produces crisp and fragrant wines with relatively low acidity, often used for the Roero Arneis DOCG designation.
Lesser-Known Piedmontese Varieties
Ruchè
Ruchè is a rare, aromatic red grape primarily grown in the Castagnole Monferrato region. Its floral profile—dominated by notes of rose petals and red fruit—makes it distinct. Though it was nearly extinct by the 1960s, a revival of interest in the grape has led to increased plantings, resulting in the Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato DOCG. Wines made from Ruchè are floral, lightly tannic, and carry a unique elegance.
Grignolino
Grignolino, native to Monferrato, produces light, refreshing red wines with a slightly peppery and herbal flavor. Known for its thin skins and large number of seeds, the name derives from grignole, meaning “seeds” in local dialect. This grape requires careful handling to avoid excessive tannins.
Brachetto
Most well-known for producing sweet, sparkling wines, Brachetto is particularly associated with Brachetto d’Acqui DOCG. The grape has an aromatic profile that includes hints of strawberries, roses, and red berries, often compared to Moscato.
Pelaverga Piccolo
This rare grape is primarily grown around the village of Verduno and is used to produce Verduno Pelaverga DOC wines. Pelaverga wines are notable for their light colour and pronounced peppery aroma, combined with flavours of red berries and floral notes. It’s an ancient grape that was almost forgotten until it was revived by a handful of dedicated producers.
Timorasso
A white variety from the Tortona area, Timorasso is one of Piedmont’s most exciting recent rediscoveries. Known for producing age-worthy white wines with a full body and complex flavors, it can develop minerality and nutty notes over time. Though historically overshadowed by Arneis, Timorasso has been making a significant comeback thanks to the efforts of passionate winemakers.
Albarossa
A relatively modern grape, Albarossa is a crossing of Barbera and Nebbiolo di Dronero. It was developed in 1938 by Professor Giovanni Dalmasso. With the acidity of Barbera and the tannic structure of Nebbiolo, Albarossa produces balanced, fruit-forward wines with a good aging potential. This grape is still quite rare, but it is gradually gaining attention in Piedmont.
Baratuciat
Baratuciat is a rare white grape producing wines with piercing acidity, making it suitable for a variety of wine styles, from still to sparkling. Its resurgence is credited to the efforts of local agronomists and winemakers who have brought it back from near extinction.
Freisa
Freisa, though lesser-known, is an important part of Piedmont’s winemaking history. It’s an ancient red variety related to Nebbiolo. Known for its high tannins and acidity, it produces structured wines that are often slightly fizzy (frizzante). Freisa d’Asti DOC wines are typically earthy, with hints of rose, violet, and red berries.
Other Notable Grape Varieties
- Nascetta – a rising white variety from the Langhe region
- Bonarda – known for light, fruity wines
- Cortese – the main grape of Gavi DOCG, producing crisp and floral whites
- Moscato – used in the production of Moscato d’Asti and Asti Spumante, sparkling wines known for their sweetness and low alcohol content.
Piedmont’s Contribution to Dutch Gastronomy
Dutch gastronomy has evolved significantly in recent years, with chefs embracing seasonal ingredients, innovation, and sustainability. Piedmontese wines, known for their diverse flavour profiles and structured complexity, make ideal pairings with these culinary trends. Whether it’s seafood or game, the balance of acidity, fruit, and tannin in Piedmont wines elevates dishes, creating a harmonious dining experience.
While Piemonte is globally renowned for its Nebbiolo-based wines, such as Barolo and Barbaresco, many of the region’s other grape varieties often remain in the shadows. There’s no denying that Barolo, with its power and elegance, can pair surprisingly well with a wide range of dishes. However, Piedmont offers a broad spectrum of grapes that cover the full flavor range—from dry to sweet, still to sparkling, and from fruity to structured. Most Piedmontese varieties boast remarkable freshness due to their high acidity, making them versatile companions for food.
During our lunch at Restaurant Pollevie, we were treated to a plant-based menu, challenging the traditional notion that Piedmontese wines pair best with meat. We were also encouraged to freely experiment with wine pairings. To our surprise, the red Pelaverga grape turned out to be a perfect match for almost everything on our plates. Meanwhile, Arneis emerged as a true hero, its floral aromas balancing beautifully with the vegetal flavours of the dishes.
A Selection of Piedmontese Wines
At the event, 14 exceptional wines from Piedmont were tasted, each showcasing the unique qualities of the region’s diverse grape varieties.
1. Malvirà, Rive Gauche Rosé (Spumante Extra Brut) 88/100 DWA score
This sparkling rosé is made from 100% Nebbiolo, fermented in stainless steel with a secondary fermentation using the Charmat method. With 11% alcohol, it offers crisp acidity, delicate red berry flavors, and a fine mousse.
2. Podere Ruggeri Corsini, Berlu ‘D Ciat, Langhe Bianco DOC, 2023, 89/100 DWA score
Made from 100% Baratuciat, this white wine is fermented in stainless steel, maintaining its fresh and mineral character. With 12.5% alcohol, it delivers flavors of green apple and citrus.
3. Sordo Giovanni, Roero Arneis DOCG, 2023 89/100 DWA score
Produced from 100% Arneis, this wine undergoes stainless steel fermentation and three months of sur lie aging. It has 13.5% alcohol and presents floral and fruity aromas, with notes of pear and almond.
4. Malvirà, Roero Arneis DOCG, 2023 89/100 DWA score
A 100% Arneis wine vinified in stainless steel, it has 13% alcohol and features vibrant citrus and tropical fruit flavors, with a subtle herbal touch.
5. Sordo Giovanni, Verduno Pelaverga DOC, 2022 90/100 DWA score
This wine is made from 100% Pelaverga Piccolo and fermented in stainless steel, followed by six months of aging. It contains 13.5% alcohol and delivers light red fruit flavors with a peppery finish.
6. Tenuta Olim Bauda, Isolavilla, Grignolino d’Asti DOC, 2023 (Bio) 90/100 DWA score
This organic wine, made from 100% Grignolino, is fermented in stainless steel at controlled temperatures. It has 13.5% alcohol, with light strawberry flavors and a peppery edge.
7. Bava, Ruchè di Castagnolo DOCG, 2023 89/100 DWA score
A 100% Ruchè wine, fermented and aged in stainless steel, with 14% alcohol. It features floral rose notes with red fruit and light tannins.
8. Malvirà, Vigna San Michele, Barbera d’Alba Superiore DOC, 2020 (Bio) 91/100 DWA score
An organic Barbera aged for 20 months in large oak barrels, with 14% alcohol. It offers deep cherry and plum flavors with a hint of spice.
9. Villa Giada, Dani, Nizza DOCG, 2020 92/100 DWA score
This wine is made from 100% Barbera, fermented in stainless steel, and aged for 12 months in barriques. With 14% alcohol, it delivers rich cherry and dark berry flavors.
10. Braida, Bricco dell’Uccellone, Barbera d’Asti DOCG, 2020 92/100 DWA score
A concentrated Barbera with 16.5% alcohol, this wine is fermented for 20 days in stainless steel and aged for 12 months in barriques. It offers intense blackberry, plum, and chocolate notes.
11. Franco Conterno, Panerole, Barolo DOCG, 2020 93/100 DWA score
Made from 100% Nebbiolo, this Barolo is aged for 30 months in large oak barrels. It has 14.5% alcohol and presents classic flavors of tar, roses, and cherries.
12. Malvirà, Trinità, Roero Riserva DOCG, 2011 91/100 DWA score
A 100% Nebbiolo wine, aged for 24 months in large oak barrels and 12 months in bottle. With 14% alcohol, it is rich and complex, featuring dried flowers, leather, and spice.
13. Malvirà, Birbet, Vino Spumante Aromatico, NV (Bio) 87/100 DWA score
This sparkling wine, made from 100% Brachetto, is fermented in stainless steel with a second fermentation in autoclaves. With 6.5% alcohol, it is light, aromatic, and slightly sweet.
14. Cocchi, Vermouth di Torino 90/100 DWA score
A fortified wine flavored with botanicals, herbs, and spices, this vermouth has 16% alcohol. It offers aromas of dried fruits and spices, with a balanced bittersweet flavor.
The Emerging Role of Piedmont’s Hidden Gems in Dutch Cuisine
In conclusion, Piedmont’s lesser-known wines are increasingly finding a place on Dutch menus, showcasing the region’s depth beyond its renowned Nebbiolo-based wines. Dutch chefs are embracing the diversity of Piedmontese varieties, allowing their unique flavors and structures to elevate contemporary cuisine. The versatility of these wines, with their high acidity and complex profiles, complements the evolving Dutch culinary landscape, proving that Piedmont has much more to offer than just Barolo and Barbaresco. As Dutch gastronomy continues to innovate, Piedmont’s hidden gems—such as Arneis, Pelaverga, and Timorasso—are playing a pivotal role in shaping memorable dining experiences, bridging two rich culinary traditions.
This article is written by our own Barbora Peterikova. We thank Fred Nijhuis , I Vini del Piemonte and the team of Restaurant Pollevie for the pleasant afternoon, and the Piedmontese winemakers for the wines they provided.
