2021 Finca Dofí – Alvaro Palacios.
When one thinks of the modern renaissance of Spanish wine, the name Álvaro Palacios inevitably stands out, particularly for his transformative influence on the Priorat region. Palacios, often referred to as a visionary winemaker, has played a monumental role in putting this once-forgotten region of northeastern Spain back on the global wine map. His bold approach, combined with a deep respect for tradition, has allowed Priorat to thrive in the modern wine world, producing some of Spain’s most sought-after wines.
In this review we are discussing one of his most emblematic wines, the 2021 vintage of Alvaro’s Finca Dofí.
About the Winemaker
Though Álvaro Palacios hails from a prominent Rioja winemaking family, his journey to Priorat began with a desire to carve his own path. After studying oenology in Bordeaux and working with some of the most esteemed names in the wine world, including Château Petrus, he returned to Spain with a mission. His return to Spain wasn’t to Rioja, however, but to the virtually unknown and neglected Priorat.
In 1989, he purchased a small vineyard in the village of Gratallops, where he began to experiment with old vine Garnacha (Grenache) and Cariñena (Carignan), the two dominant varieties of the region. From the outset, Palacios believed in the potential for Priorat to produce world-class wines, and he set out to prove it with meticulous winemaking and a focus on terroir-driven, high-quality wines.
The wine that would become Álvaro Palacios’ signature achievement is L’Ermita, a single-vineyard wine that has come to symbolize both the revival of Priorat and the heights that Spanish wine can achieve. This tiny parcel, producing only a few hundred cases per year, yields a wine of remarkable intensity, complexity, and elegance. It’s a wine that has achieved legendary status, often compared to the finest wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy, and commands equally high prices.
The name L’Ermita is synonymous with the grandeur of Priorat: powerful, mineral-driven, and profoundly expressive. The old vines of Garnacha and Cariñena, combined with Palacios’ rigorous approach to viticulture and winemaking, result in a wine that is both a tribute to the region’s past and a bold statement for its future.
In the 35 years since he started out in Priorat Álvaro has not only elevated the reputation of Priorat, but also demonstrated the aging potential and sophistication of wines from this rugged area. His wines stand in stark contrast to the fruit-forward, approachable wines of many other Spanish regions, offering instead a more structured and layered drinking experience, where every sip reveals something new.
About the Vineyard
While L’Ermita may be the crown jewel, Palacios’ work in Priorat extends beyond this iconic wine. His second label, Finca Dofí, also from Gratallops, is another remarkable expression of the Priorat terroir, though more accessible and produced in larger quantities. Finca Dofí is often seen as the gateway to understanding Priorat, offering a glimpse into the intense, mineral character that defines the region.
While often overshadowed by the legendary L’Ermita, Finca Dofí is a masterpiece in its own right, showcasing the power and elegance that define Priorat’s terroir. This single-vineyard wine encapsulates the essence of the region, highlighting old vines, mineral-rich soils, and the intense craftsmanship that has become synonymous with Álvaro Palacios’ work.
Finca Dofí was Palacios’ first major project in Priorat, following his acquisition of a vineyard in Gratallops in 1989. Named after the estate, it represents his commitment to revitalizing Priorat’s ancient vineyards and realizing the region’s full potential on the global wine stage. The vineyard is primarily planted with Garnacha (Grenache), a variety that thrives in Priorat’s intense Mediterranean climate, producing wines of deep concentration and complexity.
Located on steep, terraced slopes in Gratallops, the Finca Dofí vineyard is defined by Llicorella soils, composed of broken slate and quartz. These soils are crucial to the wine’s character, imparting a distinct mineral complexity and forcing the vines to struggle, resulting in low yields of highly concentrated fruit.
The vineyard’s altitude and exposure to the intense Mediterranean sun ensure the grapes achieve full ripeness while maintaining a remarkable freshness. This delicate balance of ripeness and acidity is a hallmark of Palacios’ wines, with Finca Dofí offering a more approachable expression of Priorat’s powerful terroir compared to L’Ermita.
Unlike the ultra-limited production of L’Ermita, Finca Dofí is more widely available, making it an accessible gateway for wine enthusiasts to explore Priorat’s unique expression. It consistently delivers on Palacios’ promise of quality, with each vintage revealing subtle variations in weather, soil, and vine age, while staying true to its terroir-driven roots.
About the Wine
The 2021 vintage of Finca Dofí is recognized as one of the finest in recent years, marked by a growing season that fostered exceptional fruit quality. Cooler-than-usual early-year conditions slowed the ripening process, leading to a more balanced harvest. Mild daytime temperatures and cool nights preserved the grapes’ acidity and freshness, while the extended growing season allowed for optimal phenolic ripeness, resulting in a wine that is both powerful and graceful.
Primarily composed of Garnacha, with smaller amounts of Cariñena (Carignan), and occasionally a touch of Syrah or other local varieties, Finca Dofí 2021 highlights Priorat’s traditional grapes. The Garnacha contributes ripe red fruit and floral notes, while Cariñena adds structure, depth, and a mineral edge. The result is a wine that balances concentration with alluring freshness and purity.
In the glass, the 2021 vintage displays a deep ruby color with a bright, almost shimmering edge—typical of Garnacha’s vibrancy. The nose is complex, with layers of ripe cherries, raspberries, and dark plums, complemented by subtle floral hints of violets and lavender. Mediterranean herbs like rosemary and thyme intertwine with the fruit aromas, while a distinct minerality, reminiscent of wet slate, reflects the region’s iconic Llicorella soils.
On the palate, the wine is full-bodied yet refined, offering concentrated red fruit—ripe strawberries, cherries, and blackberries—balanced by vibrant acidity. The tannins are fine and polished, providing structure without overpowering the wine. Savory, earthy qualities emerge mid-palate, along with a mineral-driven edge that carries through to the long, persistent finish.
The finish lingers beautifully, silky and persistent, with nuances of crushed stone, dried herbs, and a hint of cocoa, adding depth and complexity to the wine’s lasting impression.
Conclusion:
Although L’Ermita often steals the spotlight, Finca Dofí stands strong as a reflection of Palacios’ mastery and his vision for Priorat. It embodies the greatness of the region’s terroir and Palacios’ belief in the potential of its traditional varieties. Finca Dofí offers wine lovers an opportunity to experience the true essence of Priorat’s rugged, mineral-rich landscape.
The 2021 vintage, in particular, highlights the strides Priorat has made in recent years. It perfectly balances power with elegance, demonstrating the unique strength of the region’s terroir and Palacios’ careful craftsmanship in the vineyard and winery.
Like many of Palacios’ wines, Finca Dofí 2021 is built to age gracefully. Its structure and balance will allow it to evolve beautifully over the next 10 to 15 years. While approachable now, with its fresh fruit and vibrancy, it will gain complexity as the tannins soften, revealing secondary aromas of earth, spice, and leather. In this relatively young age, we recommend to double decant the wine before consuming.
We award this stunning single vineyard wine with a 95-point DWA score.
This review is written by our own Niels Aarts. Alvaro Palacios is imported in the Netherlands by Vinites and available through selected retail and hospitality partners.
Price: €125,00
Taste date: October 2024
Score: 95/100 DWA Score
Website: N/A