Weingut Lobner, everything happens for a Riesling.
In the southeastern part of Weinviertel—Austria’s renowned wine region—near the Slovakian border and the March River, lies Weingut Gerhard J. Lobner. This relatively young winery is now in the capable hands of the talented 23-year-old Benita Lobner, the 4th generation of the family, bringing both passion and expertise to the table.
The winery was originally taken over by Benita’s father in 2014. However, with his role as Managing Director of Mayer am Pfarrplatz, a prominent winery in Vienna, he kept the family vineyard somewhat under the radar, focusing mainly on vineyard work without producing many wines. With Benita now at the helm, that’s all set to change.
Driven by her fascination with Riesling and Grüner Veltliner, as well as her ambition to innovate in the realm of quality alcohol-free wines, Benita shared with us her vision for the winery, her deep knowledge, and her particular passion for showcasing Austrian Riesling at its finest.
Benita Lobner: Riesling Lover, Winemaker, and Alcohol-Free Visionary
Inspired by the legacy of her great-grandparents, grandparents, and father, Benita Lobner followed in their footsteps by attending viticulture school. With her mother working in Austrian wine exports and her father managing Mayer am Pfarrplatz, winemaking was a natural path. After completing internships in Mosel and Kamptal, including stints with Clemens Busch and Fred Loimer, Benita knew her calling: to be a farmer—a bio-organic farmer, to be precise. The family winery achieved full organic certification with the 2024 harvest.
The estate encompasses 10 hectares on the Gelsenberg and Rochusberg, primarily planted with Riesling and Grüner Veltliner, which perfectly suit the region’s soils. Riesling dominates, with 51% of the vineyard dedicated to the variety—a reflection of both Benita’s and her father’s deep passion for it. As her father used to say, “Riesling expresses the character of the landscape like no other. For me, it is the premier class of wine and the variety that stands as a synonym for the Gerhard Lobner Winery.”
Although Austria is famous for Grüner Veltliner, Benita is determined to shift that narrative. Her commitment to Riesling goes beyond preference—she’s on a mission to teach people to appreciate a well-made Riesling, proving its worth despite the challenges of cultivating it.
Three years ago, Benita was approached to explore alcohol-free wine. Initially hesitant, she embraced the challenge, launching her first alcohol-free wines this year: a Riesling-based white and a rosé. “Wine is cultural, but I completely understand that people can’t always drink alcohol. These wines offer a great alternative, with the story and passion of the winemaker still in the glass.”
Riesling, with its vibrant aromas and high acidity, proved ideal for alcohol-free winemaking. Even after the alcohol is removed, it retains its flavor and balance. Grüner Veltliner was tested, but Riesling’s structure made it the clear winner. The rosé, on the other hand, is crafted from a blend of the estate’s red varieties: Zweigelt, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Blaufränkisch.
The Southern Wine District: Gentle and Discreet
Just a 45-minute drive from Vienna lies the tranquil village of Mannersdorf an der March, home to Lobner’s winery in the southern part of Weinviertel. Some of the wines produced here are classified as DAC Weinviertel, while others fall under Niederösterreich.
The landscape along the March River is unassuming yet unforgettable, leaving a lasting impression on those who visit.
For a breathtaking view of the region, climb to the Rochuskapelle, a three-story round chapel built in 1648. As one of the few Italian Renaissance structures north of the Alps, it’s both a historical gem and a visual focal point. The view from the chapel, which is featured on all the winery’s labels, offers a priceless sense of freedom and expanse, overlooking the vineyards of Gelsenberg and Rochusberg.
The area is blessed with rich löss soils, ideal for viticulture. While the region experiences relatively low annual rainfall, löss can store water and nutrients, making it a perfect match for the increasingly unpredictable climate. When rain does come, it often arrives in heavy bursts, and the soil’s retention capacity supports the vines through drier periods. The Pannonian climate influence ensures hot summers, cold winters, and a relatively dry growing season, resulting in wines with clear, precise, and expressive fruit.
Weingut Lobner cultivates vineyards on two main sites: Gelsenberg, primarily dedicated to Riesling, and Rochusberg, which is home to Grüner Veltliner.
At Gelsenberg, Riesling thrives on terraced vineyards—the only terraces in Weinviertel—surrounded by forests that provide cool nights and moderated daytime heat. The nearby March River further contributes to a slower ripening process, which enhances the aromatic complexity of the Riesling.
Ried Gelsenberg and Ried Rochusberg
The name Ried Gelsenberg may seem to refer to an abundance of mosquitoes (Gelsen), but this is not the case. However, many winemakers humorously attribute the pricing of wines from this unique terraced system to the “blood tax” they pay to mosquito swarms during vineyard work.
A distinctive feature of Gelsenberg is its nine south-facing terraces, running from east to west. These terraces are covered with powerful löss, which accumulated over thousands of years and forms the fertile topsoil. The south-facing exposure and the warm, radiant terraces, nestled in a sheltered, caldron-shaped valley, create ideal conditions for ripening. At Gelsenberg, Riesling dominates, accounting for over 50% of the vineyard. Welschriesling is also grown here in small quantities, adding another dimension to the Lobner portfolio.
Ried Rochusberg, on the other hand, is steeped in history, having been a cultural landscape for over 30,000 years. Viticulture has been practiced here for at least 3,000 years. The Lobner family cultivates Grüner Veltliner on this site, where the deep, fertile löss soil, located near the March River, provides an excellent foundation. This soil gives the wines from Mannersdorf their firm, mineral character, perfectly complementing Grüner Veltliner.
The name Ried Rochusberg originates from the Rochuskapelle, a chapel built on the highest point of the hill in 1648 by Rudolf von Teufenbach. This chapel was a fulfillment of a vow made during the Thirty Years’ War: if he and his troops were spared from the plague, he would dedicate a chapel to Saint Rochus, the patron saint against the plague.
Ried Rochusberg is the first notable elevation in the southern Weinviertel when approaching from Marchfeld in the south. It marks the beginning of the hilly terrain characteristic of the Weinviertel. The vineyards here are divided into three distinct blocks.
On both Gelsenberg and Rochusberg, various cover crops are planted between the vines to introduce nitrogen into the löss soils and promote biodiversity. This practice keeps the löss healthy, supports the vineyards’ resilience, and prepares them for future challenges, including climate change. Additionally, it enhances water management in the vineyards, ensuring optimal conditions for both Riesling and Grüner Veltliner, which owe their distinctive terroir and taste to this careful stewardship.
What Else Is on Offer?
Lobner also produces a delightful red wine, a cuvée blending Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Zweigelt, and Blaufränkisch. Aged in used oak, it’s crafted as a fruity, non-vintage wine, allowing for plenty of experimentation with what nature provides. As Benita puts it, “You have to make a little bit of red wine from time to time.”
Looking ahead, Benita is exploring some exciting projects, such as planting a bit of Albariño and experimenting with barrel aging for the single-vineyard wines. However, her primary focus remains firmly on the vineyards. “I like to experiment more in the vineyard than in the cellar,” she says, reflecting her commitment to sustainable and innovative farming practices.
The Wines
Talking of wines and grapes makes us thirsty, so luckily Viguurs in Wijn (Lobner’s importer in the Netherlands) delivered us three of Benita’s wines to taste and review. These are all new vintages and recently bottled.
Ried Gelsenberg Riesling 2023 Trocken
Still a young wine but already very expressive. A nice slightly yellow golden colour with a pale tone to the side. Already a nice strong smell in the glass. A bit closed and tight in the beginning but after a few minutes and some air it gets there (only bottled 4 weeks ago before we are tasting it). Aromas of yellow fruit, peach, plum, apricot and papaya, pairs nicely with citrus fruit, grapefruit and granny smith. After a nice swirl the wine is getting a bit more exotic, passionfruit and lychee.
When tasting the wine we get strong fruity hints, fresh apple, some ripe pear and even melon, still citrus and yellow fruit but also a certain salty crispy aftertaste. Lots of minerality and some young mint in the aftertaste as well. As said, still young and with lots of freshness we think the wine has a great aging potential. But it’s already very pleasant to drink!
We award this wine with a 94-point DWA score.
Ried Gelsenberg Riesling unterm Kirschbaum 2023
Best explained as a Riesling Kabinett. But maybe even better. Grapes harvested with a little bit of botrytis (learned in the Mosel of course). Maybe it’s because of the 10% alcohol, the wine is nicely balanced and not “thin”. Lots of aroma’s we also found in the Gelsenberg Riesling but then a bit riper as it seems. Bit more body in the wine, some ripe fruit such as apple, ripe plums, nectarine, apricot and mango. Little bit of a flowery honey smell in the first nose. When we taste the wine it’s the perfect balance between sweet and fresh. A clean, still crispy citrusy taste with a nice ripe slightly sweet and fruity aftertaste. Lots of length and bit of honey, flowery taste without getting too sweet or boring. The lime crispness keeps it exciting and never boring. Perfect wine to pair Asian food or drink after a nice meal to refresh the palate. We love it!
We award this wine with a 94-point DWA score.
Ried Rochusberg Mannersdorf Grüner Veltliner 2023
A nice clear bright light-yellow wine with lots of aromas. Grüner Veltliner as it should be!
Clean and super fresh in the nose. Lots of granny smith, lime, lemon and grapefruit. Even some lychee and cumquat. The wine has a bit of a ‘green’ smell and taste, lots of young herbal expressions and some white pepper. Crispy and mineral, clean white fruit as melon, grapes and even a bit of kiwi. A fruity crispy clean and good drinkable wine that makes our mouths water. Very drinkable and enjoyable, even without food! Grüner Veltliner as we know it, made to perfection getting lots of the terroir expression and typical grape variety aromas. Benita made it clear again why Grüner Veltliner is Austria’s flagship!
We award this wine with a 95-point DWA score.
Weingut Lobner: Cultivating the Future of Austrian Wine
Weingut Gerhard J. Lobner exemplifies the delicate balance between honoring tradition and embracing innovation. Under the leadership of Benita Lobner, the winery is charting a bold new course, focusing on Riesling and Grüner Veltliner while exploring the potential of alcohol-free wines and experimental varietals.
Benita’s commitment to organic farming, terroir-driven winemaking, and sustainability ensures that every bottle reflects the unique character of the Weinviertel region. With her passion, expertise, and innovative spirit, she’s redefining what it means to be a modern winemaker in Austria.
From the rich löss soils of the Gelsenberg and Rochusberg to the nuanced wines crafted with care, Weingut Lobner is poised to leave a lasting impression—not just for its Riesling and Grüner Veltliner, but for its forward-thinking approach to winemaking and sustainable vineyard management.
For wine lovers, a visit to the tranquil village of Mannersdorf an der March offers more than just exceptional wines—it’s an invitation to experience the heart and soul of Austria’s Weinviertel, where every sip tells a story of heritage, dedication, and innovation.
This article is written by our own Martijn Coenen. We thank Benita Lobner of Weingut Gerhard J. Lobner for her time and their importer Viguurs in Wijnen for the wines they provided. All mentioned wines are available for sale in the Netherlands, and offered by Viguurs in Wijn.