Exploring Burgundy Beyond Côte d’Or: A Tasting Journey with Domaine Devillard in Mercurey.
Wine lovers are increasingly venturing beyond the classic Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune during their visits to Burgundy. A short drive along the D974 and D981 takes you away from the world-famous wine villages of Meursault, Puligny, and Chassagne-Montrachet, and in just ten minutes, you arrive in the charming region of the Côte Chalonnaise.
Villages such as Maranges, Givry, Rully, and Mercurey have risen in both popularity and quality, offering a compelling alternative at a time when the wines of the Côte d’Or have become unattainable for many. These are wines that have steadily captured the hearts of Burgundy enthusiasts.
On a crisp September morning, following a traditional French breakfast, we departed Meursault for an appointment in the village of Mercurey at one of Domaine Devillard’s renowned wineries, Château de Chamirey. As we approached the village of Chamirey, a stunning castle emerged amidst the rolling hills of Mercurey. This castle, which shares its name with the village, was our destination: Château de Chamirey.
The day’s meeting was originally scheduled with Amaury Devillard, grandson of Marquis de Jouennes d’Herville. His family has owned the castle, an Italian-style architectural gem with a classic French garden, since the late 19th century. In 1934, the Marquis became one of the first in the region to bottle wines directly at the Château, a pioneering move that many others would later follow.
Domaine Devillard
Upon arrival, we were greeted not by Amaury but by Arnaud Trouvé. It quickly became clear that we had arrived during the harvest, as evidenced by the buses full of pickers bustling through the wine villages. Arnaud explained that Amaury had headed to Mâcon earlier that morning to oversee the start of the harvest there. Naturally, the conversation turned to the 2024 harvest. Arnaud shared: “2024 is proving to be a challenging year. Spring brought heavy rainfall, and summer was brief, lasting only six weeks from mid-July to August when the sun finally shone. September, however, was cool and wet again. After two strong years, with 2023 producing a particularly large harvest, 2024 will be marked by significantly lower production.”
Devillard owns four wineries strategically spread across Burgundy, from Nuits-Saint-Georges in the north to Mâcon in the south: Domaine des Perdrix in Côte de Nuits, Domaine de la Ferté in Givry, Château de Chamirey in Mercurey, and Domaine de la Garenne in Mâcon. Arnaud elaborated: “We’ve deliberately chosen to preserve the identity of each Domaine. Each has its own dedicated cellar team and winemaker. Across all four, our focus remains consistent—minimal use of oak, resulting in fresh and pure wines.”
Our Tasting Journey
During our visit, we had the pleasure of sampling a selection of wines, focusing on those from Château de Chamirey and Domaine des Perdrix. Below, we provide an introduction to both wineries and share our tasting notes.
Château de Chamirey
We returned to the castle for our tasting, surrounded by a stunning landscape of rolling hills and prominent peaks. Unlike the more uniform Côte d’Or, the vineyard slopes around Mercurey are far less predictable in their orientation to the sun, varying in every conceivable direction.
Château de Chamirey spans approximately 37 hectares across Mercurey. Of the region’s total 100 hectares of Chardonnay vines, the Devillard family owns 13 hectares, including 1.9 hectares of the Premier Cru ‘La Mission’. Arnaud explained, “There’s generally more limestone at the top of the slopes, which contributes to Chardonnay’s refined and pure expression. Further down, the soil transitions to more clay and red rock, which is better suited for Pinot Noir.”
The wine selection for our tasting (2022 vintage).
First some insights on the Vintage. Burgundy has faced lower harvest volumes in recent years due to challenges like early frosts, extended rainfall, and rising temperatures. However, the 2022 vintage marked a welcome return to form with an excellent harvest—the first in several years. Despite a few frosty days in April, well-timed rainfall in June and August supported the vines.
While the average alcohol levels in northern Burgundy remained around 13–13.5%, many wines we tasted from Mercurey exhibited higher alcohol levels, reaching 14–14.5%. Thanks to the wines’ strong acidity and freshness, the elevated alcohol was not a drawback. However, this trend highlights a potential challenge for southern Burgundy, where similar warmer years could create issues in the future.
2022 Château de Chamirey Mercurey Blanc
Sourced from seven vineyards with a clay and limestone subsoil, this wine is aged 60% in stainless steel and 40% in 400L oak barrels. The nose is aromatic, with light brioche and fresh citrus accents. On the palate, it is clean, fresh, and juicy, with a satisfying length. A well-balanced and approachable white. DWA Score: 89 points
2022 Château de Chamirey Mercurey ‘En Pierrelet’ Blanc
From a 1-hectare vineyard located on flat land with abundant limestone behind the château, this wine is fermented with natural yeast and aged in 400L oak barrels. It delivers aromas of yellow fruit and lime zest, complemented by light wood notes. The palate showcases beautiful bitters, lively freshness, and excellent length, making it both vibrant and refined. DWA Score: 90 points
2022 Château de Chamirey Mercurey ‘Clos de la Maladière’ Rouge
Arnaud explains that this 1.36-hectare plot near the château used to be part of the regular Mercurey blend but consistently stood out. Now bottled separately, it is made with 100% destemmed grapes and aged for ten months in oak, 20% of which is new. Aromas of wild strawberries and forest floor lead into flavors of bright red fruit, grippy tannins, and vibrant acidity. A structured and elegant wine. DWA Score: 91 points
2021 Château de Chamirey Mercurey Premier Cru ‘Champs Martin’ Rouge
This wine comes from a 0.5-hectare vineyard with red rock and traces of limestone. It reveals aromas of red fruit and forest floor, with hints of light oak. On the palate, it is structured and grippy, with a wide, layered profile and impressive length. The 14% alcohol is well-integrated, giving it a robust and balanced character. DWA Score: 92 points
2022 Château de Chamirey Mercurey Premier Cru ‘En Sazenay’ Rouge
From a hilltop vineyard with an eastern exposure, this site features eroded soils with hard limestone at the top and finer rock below. The wine is aged for 14 months in oak, 15% of which is new. It offers ripe fruit aromas, a broad and full-bodied palate, firm but polished tannins, and a slightly higher alcohol level that adds to its richness and depth. A wine of power and finesse. DWA Score: 92 points
Domaine des Perdrix
Domaine des Perdrix has been part of the family portfolio since 1996 and boasts vineyards in some of Burgundy’s most prestigious locations, including Vosne-Romanée, Nuits-Saint-Georges, and Echézeaux, covering a total of 15 hectares. These vineyards are considered the family’s crown jewels, cultivated with a focus on sustainability and respect for nature. Arnaud explains, “Sustainability is our priority, and we only intervene in the vineyard when absolutely necessary. Harvesting is done exclusively by hand to ensure the best selection of grapes.”
One unique feature is the planting of Chardonnay in Nuits-Saint-Georges, a region traditionally dominated by Pinot Noir. Only 1% of the vineyard area in NSG is dedicated to white varieties. Arnaud adds, “We own just 0.3 hectares of Chardonnay, producing a limited run of 1,500 bottles. The plot is located slightly higher on the slope, where the limestone-rich soil is less ideal for Pinot Noir but produces exceptional Chardonnay wines.”
The wine selection for our tasting:
2022 Burgundy ‘Hautes Côtes de Nuits’ Blanc
Sourced from the higher vineyards in Nuits-Saint-Georges, this wine is still slightly closed, revealing delicate aromas of yellow fruit, lime zest, and light oak. The palate is round, with a well-balanced structure and refreshing acidity. A wine with great potential, it offers a pleasant fullness and a clean finish. DWA score 90-points.
2022 Burgundy Rouge, Pinot Noir
Produced from vineyards neighboring Nuits-Saint-Georges, this wine comes from vines aged 60-80 years, adding depth and complexity. It displays dark fruit flavors, accented by spices, and a solid structure. The wine is higher in alcohol, contributing to its full-bodied character, with a persistent finish. A robust yet elegant expression of Pinot Noir. DWA score 89-points.
2021 Nuits-Saint-Georges, 1er Cru ‘Les Terres Blanches’
Crafted from clay-limestone soils, this wine spends 13 months aging in oak barrels, 30% of which are new. The nose is elegant and refined, with aromas of ripe red fruit and subtle earthy notes. On the palate, it is layered with well-integrated oak, showing both structure and finesse. The wine offers excellent length and complexity, promising great aging potential. DWA score 92-points.
2018 Echézeaux, Grand Cru ‘Du Dessus’
Arnaud suddenly got up during the tasting to get another bottle, and what a wine, the Grand Cru Echézeaux from Perdrix. Neighbor of Romanée Conti. Sticks planned in 1922. Just 1,240 bottles produced. Unfortunately, the bottle had been open too long and was now slightly oxidized. Unfortunately, we were therefore unable to give a good review.
Devillard: Pioneering Burgundy’s Future While Honoring Its Heritage
The tasting showed that Devillard has a wide range of wines. In addition to the wines that we were able to taste, Devillard has several cuvees. For example, Chamirey knows the Mercurey 1Er Cru ‘Clos du Roi’ and 1Er Cru ‘Les Cinq’. Perdrix also has cuvees such as Vosne-Romanée, NSG 1Er cru ‘Aux Perdrix’ and Gevrey-Chambertin 1Er Cru ‘La Perrière’. All wines that distinguish themselves and make it interesting to continue exploring Devillard.
Devillard shows its strength across the board through the recognizable freshness and tension in the wines across the entire width of their portfolio. Yet the tasting at Devillard also highlights the challenges ahead. An average warmer and shorter growing season with a greater chance of heavy precipitation creates a continuous challenge to keep the vineyards in top condition. The higher alcohol percentages, up to 14.5%, are extreme for Burgundy, will become the rule rather than the exception in the future and require a strong vision. After our visit, we are convinced that Devillard is ahead of his time and ready for the challenges that the coming years will bring.
This article is written by our own Daan. We would like to thank the Devillard family, especially Arnaud, for their hospitality and well-organized tasting. We also like to thank Vinites, who are the proud importer for these wines in the Netherlands, for arranging the visit.
