Bodega Otronia: Winemaking in Extreme Conditions.

Located in the heart of Argentine Patagonia, Bodega Otronia is one of the southernmost wine-producing regions in the world. Situated at 45°33′ parallel south in Sarmiento, Chubut, near Lake Musters—known locally as Otron—the estate faces some of the most extreme climatic conditions for viticulture. The soils, shaped by the lake, consist of clays, fluvial rocks, alluvial deposits, and wind-blown sands. The persistent winds and dry climate naturally limit disease pressure, making organic viticulture not only possible but the logical choice for the estate.

Bodega Otronia is part of Alejandro Bulgheroni Family Vineyards, a group of wineries focused on producing high-quality wines in distinctive terroirs. The estate covers 51 hectares of certified organic vineyards, growing Pinot Noir, Merlot, Chardonnay, Malbec, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Torrontés, Pinot Gris, and Sauvignon Blanc.

Recently Dutch importer Vinites invited us to taste Otronia’s wines, presented by Teresa Cedenilla Juarez, followed by an excellent lunch at Restaurant Nazka in Amsterdam. What follows is a report by our own Barbora Peterikova.

Establishment and Development

The project was founded by Alejandro Bulgheroni, who, at the age of 70, sought to create a lasting legacy for his family and the local community. To assess the feasibility of growing vines in such extreme conditions, he consulted Alberto Antonini, a renowned Italian wine consultant. Antonini initially recommended starting with a small two-hectare trial, but given the long timeline required to establish a vineyard, Bulgheroni made the bold decision to plant all 50 hectares at once.

Since its start, Bodega Otronia has evolved into a benchmark for cool-climate viticulture in Argentina, proving that high-quality wines can emerge from one of the world’s most challenging environments. The team continues to refine vineyard practices, adapting to the nuances of each vintage while preserving the integrity of the land. However, due to its remote location, transporting the wines presents logistical challenges. The wines are vinified at Otronia and then shipped 2,000 kilometers north to Mendoza, where Avinea Group manages distribution and export. Despite these challenges, Otronia continues to expand its international presence, with growing recognition for its wines in key markets.

Climate and Challenges

Bodega Otronia’s vineyards experience extreme cold, with temperatures classifying it within one of the coldest viticultural zones globally. To combat frost, a sprinkler anti-freeze system is used, creating a thin layer of ice on the vines, which acts as an igloo effect to prevent damage by maintaining temperatures above freezing.

The region is also characterized by strong winds, often exceeding 100 km/h. While a challenge, these winds contribute to the thickening of grape skins, concentrating aromas and flavours while reducing disease pressure. The combination of intense solar exposure up to 16 hours in summer and cold temperatures ensures slow, balanced ripening, preserving acidity and enhancing aromatic intensity. The interplay of these elements results in wines with a distinctive freshness, precision, and depth.

Another challenge is the remote location, which limits access to vineyard materials and labour. The team has developed solutions to manage these logistical difficulties, including sustainable water usage and a reliance on natural vineyard management techniques that reduce the need for outside inputs. 

Organic Viticulture and Sustainability

The combination of dry conditions and strong winds makes organic viticulture the default choice at Otronia. The absence of excessive humidity significantly reduces fungal diseases, eliminating the need for chemical interventions. The winery integrates sustainable farming practices, prioritizing environmental stewardship while supporting the health of vineyard workers and the surrounding community. Cover crops are used to improve soil structure and prevent erosion, while biodiversity within the vineyards helps maintain a balanced ecosystem.

Otronia’s sustainability efforts extend beyond the vineyard. The winery focuses on reducing carbon emissions by optimizing transport and distribution, as well as minimizing water waste through precise irrigation techniques.

Winemaking Approach

The winemaking team, led by Juan Pablo Murgia, emphasizes minimal intervention and site expression. Murgia has been recognized for his work, receiving the Young Winemaker of the Year award from Tim Atkin MW in 2021 and being named Winemaker of the Year by Patricio Tapia in the South American 2022 Descorchados guide. His focus is on showcasing the specific characteristics of the Patagonian terroir through precise vineyard management and careful vinification.

Fermentation is carried out with native yeasts to preserve the distinct expression of each vineyard block. Aging takes place in a combination of untoasted oak and neutral vessels to maintain purity of fruit. Each block is vinified separately, allowing for a diverse selection of blending components that can be used individually or combined to create a balanced final wine. The focus remains on capturing the characteristics of the site while ensuring freshness, structure, and harmony in the wines.

Wines and Varieties

Initially, the estate was primarily planted with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, as sparkling wine production was expected to be the main focus. However, Otronia has also achieved success with Malbec, Merlot, and a selection of white varieties, including Gewürztraminer and Riesling. The wines demonstrate significant aging potential, with their acidity and structure supporting long-term evolution in the bottle. 

During the tasting, we had the opportunity to explore four wines, including some aged examples. Below our tasting notes and ratings.

2020 Corte de Blancas Organic ’45 Rugientes’

A blend of Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, and Riesling. Displays tight acidity and layered textures from the different varieties, with prominent citrus notes. Aged in untoasted oak, which provides structure without imparting additional flavors. Retains remarkable freshness despite bottle aging. 

We reward this wine with a 91-point DWA Score.

2018 Chardonnay Organic ‘Block 3&6’ 

Restrained and precise, with bright acidity framing notes of citrus, green apple, and subtle white flowers. Reminiscent of white Burgundy, with a mineral backbone and evolving complexity in the glass. Shows notable nutty aromas with bottle age. The use of oak adds structure without overshadowing the purity of fruit. Long and focused finish.

We reward this wine with a 94-point DWA Score.

2021 Pinot Noir ’45 Rugientes’

Fresh and expressive, showing red berries, cranberry, and hints of dried herbs. The high-altitude climate contributes to firm acidity and fine-grained tannins. A slight earthiness adds depth, leading to a vibrant long finish. More cheerful and playful in style compared to the Block 1 Pinot Noir.

We reward this wine with a 92-point DWA Score.

2018 Pinot Noir Organic ‘Block 1’

More structured than the ’45 Rugientes’ Pinot Noir, with darker fruit, black cherry, and subtle spice. Appears to age incredibly slowly, maintaining youth and vibrancy despite its years in bottle. The thicker skins due to strong winds contribute to a firmer tannic profile. Very long finish, with great aging potential.

We reward this wine with a 95-point DWA Score.

Conclusion

Bodega Otronia is an example of viticulture in extreme conditions, demonstrating how adaptation and precise vineyard management can produce high-quality wines in an unconventional setting. The combination of cold temperatures, strong winds, and extended sunlight hours results in wines with pronounced structure, concentration, and freshness, distinguishing Otronia as a unique project within Argentine wine production. The ongoing development of these vineyards provides further insight into the potential of Patagonian viticulture, with Otronia playing a pioneering role in shaping the future of this emerging region.

Restaurant NAZKA

The tasting was hosted at Restaurant Nazka in Amsterdam, a Peruvian-inspired restaurant known for its focus on high-quality ingredients and refined flavours. The event was guided by Sommelier Alessandro Tondini, whose deep knowledge and enthusiasm for Otronia’s wines added valuable context to the tasting. While the wines were not specifically paired with the dishes, they proved to be an excellent match with the South American flavours served at Nazka, highlighting their versatility. The wines’ vibrant acidity, structure, and layered textures complemented the cuisine naturally, reinforcing their potential in a wide range of gastronomic settings.

This article is written by our own Barbora Peterikova. Otronia is imported and distributed in the Netherlands by Vinites, and available through selected partners. We would like to thank Otronia, in particular Teresa Cedenilla Juarez, Vinites and of course the staff at Nazka for the wonderful tasting and lunch.