Masterclass Bordeaux – An In-Depth Exploration of Terroir and Climate.
On March 3rd, an exclusive masterclass took place at De Zuiderkerk in Amsterdam, organized by Perswijn and Union des Grands Cru de Bordeaux (UGCB). This session, held prior to the 2022 vintage tasting by UGCB, offered a deep dive into the complex world of Bordeaux wines. The masterclass was led by Alexander van Beek (Château Giscours), Lars Daniels MV (Perswijn) and Job Seuren (Restaurant Zoldering).
The four central themes – Grape Varieties & Regionality, Soils & Sense of Place, Cooler & Warmer Vintages, and Sweet Sensations – were explored through four carefully curated flights, each featuring two wines.
Flight 1: Château Beauregard 2022 vs. Château Lagrange 2022
(Grape Varieties and Regionalities)
This flight presented a classic contrast between the right and left banks of Bordeaux. The differences between Pomerol and Saint-Julien were clearly highlighted. Château Beauregard 2022 displayed a velvety structure and a dominant Merlot expression, whereas Château Lagrange 2022 showcased the characteristic power and tannin-rich structure of Cabernet Sauvignon. The terroir differences, shaped by river deposits and soil composition, were beautifully illustrated.
Flight 2: Clos Fourtet 2021 vs. Château Lynch Bages 2021
(Soils and Sense of Place)
This comparison emphasized how terroir and soil type influence wine style. Clos Fourtet, from Saint-Émilion, exhibited a delicate balance between finesse and strength, with a ripe Merlot expression and subtle minerality from limestone soils. Château Lynch Bages, a classic example from Pauillac, exuded power with robust tannins and deep fruit complexity, influenced by the gravel soils of the Médoc.
Flight 3: Château Giscours 2021 vs. Château Giscours 2022
(Cooler and Warmer Vintages)
A unique opportunity to experience the influence of climate on wine. The 2021 vintage, a ‘cool climate’ year, produced a tighter, more structured wine with a fresh and elegant character. The 2022 vintage, on the other hand, presented a fuller, more concentrated style with riper fruit and softer tannins, reflecting the warmer growing season.
Flight 4: Château Doisy Daëne 2020 vs. Château de Fargues 2022
(Sweet Sensations)
The final flight showcased the noble sweet wines from Sauternes and Barsac. Château Doisy Daëne 2020 demonstrated impressive freshness and balance, with subtle citrus and honey notes. Château de Fargues 2022, a powerful and rich expression of Sauternes, brought forth deep botrytis tones and opulent complexity.
A New Generation of Bordeaux: Climate and Innovation
During the masterclass, there was extensive discussion on how climate change is impacting viticulture in Bordeaux. Particular attention was given to vineyard adaptations, such as increased canopy height, more precise harvesting times, and the use of cover crops to improve water retention. Wines from recent vintages displayed remarkable balance, with even warmer years maintaining their freshness and elegance.
Bordeaux: A Region of History and Future
A key takeaway from the masterclass was the resilience and adaptability of Bordeaux winemakers. Through innovation and a deep understanding of terroir, Bordeaux continues to be a benchmark in the wine world. As was emphasized during the closing remarks: “Bordeaux is not snobbish; it is a region with open doors, where history and innovation come together.”
More on Bordeaux
For more on the Bordeaux region as fine wine producers stay tuned for our spring reports, as we publish a new series of article and podcasts with some of the leading producers in Bordeaux. Online on our website and Podcast channel Grape Masters. More about this can be found here.
This masterclass provided a unique opportunity not only to discover the quality of Bordeaux wines but also to understand the region’s ongoing evolution. For wine enthusiasts and professionals alike, it was a valuable experience that reinforced the complexity and versatility of Bordeaux.
This article is written by our own Niels Aarts. Picture credits: Milton Verseput, Wijnkoperij Okhuysen.
We would like to thank Alexander van Beek, General Manager of Château Giscours, Lars Daniëls, Magister Vini and Deputy Editor-in-Chief of Perswijn and Sommelier and Restaurant Owner Job Seuren at Restaurant Zoldering.
Also a thank you to the organizers of this excellent masterclass, Perswijn and the Union des Grand Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB), and the supporting importers De Bruijn in Wijnen and Wijnkoperij Okhuysen.
