2022 Tandaradai Grüner Veltliner – von der Vogelwaide.
Following our recent review of the 2022 Tandaradai Riesling—which you can find here —we now turn to its equally impressive sibling: the 2022 Tandaradai Grüner Veltliner. Both wines form the flagship pair of von der Vogelwaide, the visionary wine project led by Daniel Vogelwaid and Michael Donabaum in Austria’s Wachau region.
If the Riesling is a portrait of precision and poise, the Grüner Veltliner paints a more textured, expressive picture—one that expands on the house style while offering something entirely its own.
About the Winery
In a region steeped in tradition and centuries-old vineyards, von der Vogelwaide is breaking new ground—literally and philosophically. Founded in 2019 by Daniel Vogelwaid and Michael Donabaum, this remarkable wine project from Austria’s Wachau region defies convention, choosing instead a path defined by freedom, sustainability, and bold creativity.
What sets von der Vogelwaide apart is more than just its wines—it’s the story and spirit behind them. Daniel and Michael, both deeply rooted in viticulture, bring a wealth of international experience from top estates such as Château Palmer, Comtes Lafon, Domaine de l’Horizon, Franz Hirtzberger, and Tokara. Their paths crossed through a shared vision: to build something truly personal, unbound by the strict conventions often associated with the term ‘Weingut’. In fact, the pair consciously avoid that label, preferring to define their identity through their values: biodynamics, innovation, and individuality.
Their journey began with a striking appeal to vineyard owners across the Wachau in search of forgotten, hard-to-reach plots. Within days, they found their first two hidden gems—overgrown and almost unrecognizable—but full of potential. One of these was Ried Schön in the Spitzer Graben, a steep site they lovingly refer to as “a sleeping beauty.” Supported by a mix of idealism, determination, and family—including the helping hands of Grandma Donabaum—they began the painstaking process of revitalizing these parcels. Today, they farm 3 hectares organically, with 2.3 hectares in production.
Their approach is labor-intensive and traditional—steep vineyards require manual care and precision. But it’s in the cellar that the philosophy of von der Vogelwaide fully comes to life. Intervention is kept to a minimum. Fermentations are spontaneous, additions are avoided, and the wines are matured slowly in used Burgundy barrels. This patient, hands-off style results in layered and textural wines, with creamy cuvées of Grüner Veltliner and Riesling that show both purity and depth—sometimes even a subtle nod to the Rhône.
Daniel and Michael are more than winemakers; they’re creators. Daniel, the cellar master, holds degrees in viticulture and oenology from Geisenheim, Bordeaux, and Vienna, while Michael—who grew up among vines—brings a flair for interior design, which translates into thoughtful presentation and brand aesthetics. “We complement each other well,” Michael explains. “Daniel loves the cellar. I’m passionate about everything that comes after—sales, design, and communication.”
Their wines mirror their ethos: unconventional, deeply personal, and attuned to nature. They are wines that invite reflection, best enjoyed with time and intention. “Bottle aging is essential for us,” they explain. “When our wines hit the market, they’re like a custom-made pair of shoes: the older they get, the more refined and enjoyable they become.”
In a world often driven by speed and sameness, von der Vogelwaide offers a refreshing counterpoint—a tribute to patience, originality, and a deep respect for the land. In doing so, they are reshaping the narrative of modern Austrian wine, one thoughtful bottle at a time.
About the Wine
A Grüner Veltliner that fuses elegance, length, and flinty flair.
The 2022 Tandaradai Grüner Veltliner stands as a singular expression of the variety—radiant, layered, and deeply refined. From its origin in Lower Austria, this wine captures the full potential of Grüner Veltliner when farmed on steep, old-vine parcels and vinified with patience and restraint.
Grapes are sourced from two outstanding single vineyards: Vogelleithen and Johannserberg, where vines grow on poor, rocky soils and demand manual cultivation. These plots yield fruit of notable intensity and minerality—perfect raw material for the contemplative style Daniel and Michael pursue.
After a selective manual harvest, whole bunches are gently pressed without skin contact. Fermentation is spontaneous, followed by malolactic conversion and a full 12 months of aging on the fine lees in small 228-liter wooden barrels. The wine is bottled unfiltered, preserving its full nuance and texture.
In the glass, the Grüner shows a light green-yellow hue, subtle yet luminous. The nose opens with an intriguing touch of flinty reduction, soon giving way to a symphony of aromas: tropical fruit, white nougat, orange blossom, and a hint of white raspberry. It’s aromatic, but never loud—elegantly expressive rather than overtly fruity.
On the palate, this Tandaradai is all about silky finesse and length. Juicy peach, persimmon, and bright citrus notes glide across a creamy texture, energized by precise acidity. The structure is both taut and tactile, with the kind of savory grip that demands another sip. Underneath, there’s a subtle saline streak and a beautiful interplay between fruit and florals that lingers well into the finish.
And what a finish it is—long, composed, and focused, with the acidity and lees texture combining for exceptional balance. This is a Grüner built to age, with a quiet confidence that will reveal new layers over the next 8–12 years.
Conclusion
With the 2022 Tandaradai Grüner Veltliner, von der Vogelwaide once again delivers a wine that reflects not only the land but the vision of its makers. It’s Grüner Veltliner in a new key—complex, mineral, floral, and alive with tension. Less about typicity, more about interpretation.
Together with its Riesling counterpart, this wine forms a complete statement—two sides of the same coin, both emblematic of a winery that is redefining what the Wachau can be.
We award this wine a 95-point DWA score.
This review is written by our own Niels Aarts. Von der Vogelwaide is imported in the Netherlands by Anfors Imperial, and also available at selected hospitality partners.
Price: €72,75
Taste Date: March 2024
Score: 95/100 DWA Score
Website: von der Vogelwaide