2018 Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion.
Bordeaux’s storied Pessac-Léognan appellation boasts numerous jewels, but few shine as uniquely as a Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion. Nestled within the city limits of Bordeaux, this estate carries the distinctive moniker of an “urban vineyard,” an identity that underscores its singular terroir and history.
The story of this unique winery is unparalleled, having risen to the top in the last decade, now offering some of the best wines of Bordeaux, at an interesting price level.
In this review we discuss the 2018 vintage of the Chateau’s Grand Vin, which exemplifies Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion’s commitment to craftsmanship, blending innovation with respect for tradition.
About the Winery
Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion is a one-of-a-kind estate in Bordeaux, renowned not only for its exceptional wines but also for its unique location and history. Unlike most of Bordeaux’s prestigious vineyards, which stretch across rural landscapes, Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion sits within the city of Bordeaux itself, earning its reputation as an “urban vineyard.” This singular position provides a microclimate that significantly influences the vines, with the urban warmth facilitating early ripening and unique aromatic profiles.
The estate’s origins date back to 1584, when Jean de Pontac, the visionary owner of Château Haut-Brion, donated a portion of his land to the Carmelite monks. For over two centuries, these monks cultivated the vineyard, producing wine alongside their spiritual practices. The estate became known as Le Clos des Carmes, which inspired the name we know today. After the French Revolution, the property underwent a series of transformations, eventually being acquired by the Collin family in 1840. They modernized the estate and laid the groundwork for its legacy as a distinguished Bordeaux producer.
In 2010, Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion entered a new chapter under the ownership of the Pichet family. This marked a turning point for the estate, which had long been considered a “Sleeping Beauty” of Bordeaux. The Pichet family invested heavily in revitalizing the property, bringing in modern infrastructure, cutting-edge technology, and a visionary team. A striking new winery designed by renowned architect Philippe Starck was unveiled, blending contemporary aesthetics with functionality to redefine the estate’s winemaking capabilities.
At the heart of Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion’s philosophy is innovation, a rarity in Bordeaux’s traditionally conservative winemaking culture. The vineyard, spanning 35 hectares, is planted predominantly with Cabernet Franc, a variety that thrives in the estate’s diverse soils of clay, limestone, and gravel. Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon complement the blend, contributing richness and structure. A distinctive approach to vineyard management includes the use of horses for soil work and a meticulous focus on massal selections to preserve the vineyard’s genetic diversity.
Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion is not just a winery; it’s a beacon of modern Bordeaux. By reimagining what it means to produce world-class wine in a region steeped in tradition, the estate has carved out a distinctive place in the Bordeaux landscape. With its unique history, exceptional terroir, and innovative techniques, Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion represents the future of Bordeaux winemaking while honoring its rich past.
About the Wine
The estate’s winemaking style is another thing that sets it apart. The technical team, led by Guillaume Pouthier, a former member of Chapoutier in the Rhône Valley, introduced methods uncommon in Bordeaux, such as whole-cluster fermentation and infusion techniques. These practices, which emphasize gentle extraction and preservation of freshness, contribute to the signature silky texture and aromatic complexity of Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion’s wines.
The wines are aged in a combination of French oak barrels, large foudres, and amphorae, reflecting the estate’s commitment to marrying tradition with innovation. The aging process focuses on enhancing texture and drinkability rather than imparting overt oak flavors, allowing the vineyard’s unique terroir to shine through. A philosophy central to the estate’s identity is that a wine should “be born great, not become great,” emphasizing the creation of wines that are approachable in their youth but have the structure to age gracefully.
The 2018 Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion is a wine of breathtaking complexity and precision, setting a benchmark for modern Bordeaux. Crafted from a blend of 37% Cabernet Franc, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 29% Merlot, the wine is a testament to the estate’s innovative approach. Aged in a mix of 75% new French oak barrels, large foudres, and amphorae, this vintage showcases the unique interplay between bold creativity and timeless tradition.
In the glass, the wine reveals a deep garnet core with flashes of ruby at the rim, hinting at its vibrant youth. The nose is a kaleidoscope of aromas—blackcurrants, black cherries, and brambleberries intermingle with violet florals, graphite, and crushed stones. Subtle notes of smoked tobacco, truffle, and cocoa add intrigue, while a saline edge and wafts of dried herbs like sage and rosemary lend freshness and complexity.
On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, with a texture that is as luxurious as it is precise. Silky, fine-grained tannins frame a core of ripe black and red fruits, accompanied by layers of savory depth. The influence of whole-cluster fermentation (52%) is evident, contributing a distinctive lift and a sense of structure that complements the wine’s inherent richness. Earthy undertones of damp soil and hints of gourmet espresso and spice emerge as the wine evolves in the glass, adding to its multi-dimensional character.
The finish is remarkably long and refined, leaving impressions of crushed rocks, iodine, and a whisper of floral elegance. The balance of freshness and power ensures its approachability today, but the wine’s tightly knit structure suggests it will reveal even greater nuance with 7-10 years of cellaring and continue to evolve beautifully for decades to come.
Conclusion
The 2018 Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion is a masterpiece, seamlessly blending aromatic intensity with a luxurious palate. Its unique profile, driven by Cabernet Franc and enhanced by the estate’s innovative practices, sets it apart from its peers. With its seductive texture, vibrant freshness, and extraordinary depth, this is a wine that embodies the harmony of Bordeaux’s tradition and modernity.
We award this wine a 97-point DWA score.
This review is written by Niels Aarts. Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion is imported in the Netherlands by Colaris and available through their webshop.
Price: €130,00
Taste Date: December 2024
Score: 97/100 DWA Score
Website: Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion