2017 Flaccianello della Pieve – Fontodi.
From the heart of Chianti’s “Golden Shell” – the Conca d’Oro of Panzano – comes one of Tuscany’s modern benchmarks for varietal Sangiovese: Flaccianello della Pieve. Produced by Azienda Agricola Fontodi, this iconic wine stands at the intersection of tradition and precision, with the 2017 vintage capturing a compelling mix of power, poise, and place.
Now nearly eight years after harvest, the wine has started to reveal a more nuanced, layered character—offering a glimpse of the greatness that lies ahead.
This is not just a Sangiovese. It’s a monument to the grape’s potential.
About the Winery
Fontodi is a name that needs little introduction among lovers of fine Italian wine. Owned by the Manetti family, whose ties to the Chianti Classico region stretch back generations (not only in wine but also in terracotta production), Fontodi is one of the most respected estates in Tuscany today.
Situated in the Conca d’Oro, a natural amphitheater in Panzano in Chianti, the estate is entirely organic and farmed with meticulous care. The vineyard holdings benefit from excellent exposure, significant diurnal temperature swings, and galestro soils that suit Sangiovese perfectly.
The philosophy at Fontodi marries modern viticulture and classic sensibility, resulting in expressive wines of clarity, structure, and terroir-driven intensity.
Flaccianello, once an experimental single-vineyard wine, has grown into one of the most important pure Sangiovese expressions in Italy—released as an IGT rather than Chianti Classico to preserve stylistic freedom.
About the Wine
A Sangiovese with structure, soul, and staying power.
Tasted in June 2025, the 2017 Flaccianello unfurls in the glass with a deep garnet robe and aromatics that leap out with confidence: black cherry, ripe plum, and dried violet, followed by darker undertones of liquorice, black olive tapenade, wild herbs, and a savory edge reminiscent of leather and sunbaked earth.
The vintage—shaped by a hot and dry growing season—adds warmth and density, but Flaccianello handles the year’s conditions with grace. The palate is rich, concentrated, and remarkably polished, with dark fruit compote, sweet spice, and a gentle mineral line. There’s a seductive touch of tobacco leaf and balsamic lift that keeps the wine dynamic and complex.
Tannins are ripe, firm, and velvety, adding impressive structure without harshness. The finish is long and resonant, slowly fading through notes of dried fig, cocoa, and blood orange zest.
This is a wine that speaks with presence—at once powerful and detailed, brooding and elegant.
The 2017 Vintage in Context
The 2017 growing season in Tuscany was challenging but rewarding. A combination of spring frosts and summer heatwaves led to low yields and early ripening, demanding precise vineyard management. For many producers, the key to success was balance and restraint—something Fontodi achieved with stunning clarity.
The fruit for Flaccianello in 2017 comes exclusively from high-elevation vineyards in Panzano, allowing for better acid retention and slower ripening, even in a hot year. The result is a wine that marries the intensity of the vintage with refinement and age-worthiness.
Now in its eighth year, the wine is beginning to enter its drinking window, though it will reward cellaring for another 10 to 15 years easily.
Conclusion
Flaccianello della Pieve 2017 is a masterclass in precision Sangiovese. It expresses not only the strength of the variety but also the singularity of the Conca d’Oro terroir and the vision of one of Italy’s most talented producers.
While the vintage brought its share of challenges, the wine stands tall—monumental, magnetic, and memorable. A true modern classic that lingers on the palate and in the mind.
We award this wine a 97-point DWA score—a testament to Fontodi’s mastery and the enduring allure of great Tuscan Sangiovese.
This review is written by our own Niels Aarts. We enjoyed this Tuscan Prince during a lunch at Restaurant Ralf Berendsen (2 Michelin star restaurant at La Butte Aux Bois), paired with Venison, Celeriac, Cherry and Lardo di Colonnata.
Fontodi wines are distributed in the Netherlands by Delta Wines (Pallas Wines).
Price: ~€135,00
Taste Date: June 2025
Score: 97/100 DWA Score
Website: Fontodi
Glassware: Spiegelau Definition Universal
Writer: Niels Aarts