2014 Mesnil Emotion Grand Cru Brut – Champagne Philippe Glavier.
In this review: Champagne Philippe Glavier’s Mesnil Emotion Grand Cru Brut 2014. Even when we are not in the festive season, it is important to remember that Champagne is a great pick all around the year, and in many cases offers much more than just a festive pop. This is especially true for the more refined, gastronomic styles of Champagne – of which this wine is a perfect example, as we will soon discover.
About the Winery
In a region dominated by large houses and co-operatives, Philippe Glavier and his wife Véronique decided that instead of selling their grapes, they wanted to bottle their fruit themselves – resulting in them founding Champagne Philippe Glavier in 1995. Philippe’s family had been farming and selling grapes for generations, but after studying at the local viticultural school in Avize (Lycée d’Avize) and using the cellars of Véronique’s family at first for their winemaking, Philippe and Véronique were finally able to build their own cellar and buy winemaking equipment – employing Philippe’s new-found knowledge to produce crystalline, mineral Champagnes. Nowadays Philippe manages the cellar and vineyards, and Véronique the commercial side of the business.
About the Region
Philippe exclusively farms Chardonnay in the four famous Grand Cru communes in the Côtes des Blancs, being (from north to south) Cramant, Avize, Oger, and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger. Despite the singular focus on Chardonnay, some Pinot Noir is bought from other growers for the rose wines, stemming from the Bouzy and Ambonnay grand crus in the Montagne de Reims. While the cellar of Philippe Glavier is situated in Cramant, most of their holdings are located within the boundaries of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger – which is also the source of this wine, using Philippe’s plots of the oldest vines within this commune. The relatively higher proportions of chalk here are said to yield an especially precise, elegant style of Champagne, further described as mineral-driven, austere, and wintry, with common notes of cold citrus and stone and strong emphasis on acidity and concentration. It is no surprise that the wines from Mesnil are often said to require more time in bottle than the other Côtes des Blancs communes to soften down, in order to add some warmth and further complexity to an otherwise cool and wintry wine.
Le Mesnil-sur-Oger itself comprises of roughly 434 hectares of vineyards with over 99% planted to Chardonnay, further exemplifying the strong marriage between Chardonnay and the pure chalk soils of the Côtes des Blancs. Some of Champagne’s highest-regarded wines originate from this village, including Krug’s Clos du Mesnil and Salon’s Le Mesnil. Considering the austere, mineral, acidic and structured profile of Le Mesnil, it makes sense that these two wines are considered some of the longest-lived Champagnes to have ever been produced. Less known but often equally regarded in quality are Pierre Péters’ bottling from the Les Chetillons vineyard, and Jacques Selosse’s bottling from the Les Carelles vineyard.
About the Winemaking
Philippe roughly farms five hectares spread over 52 plots in total, which are all picked and vinified separately to allow for the best expressions and individuality of these plots. Considering over 75% of the plots are located in either Oger or Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Philippe’s winemaking further accentuates the elegance and minerality associated with these villages (Mesnil being considered the prime example of this style). The relatively small press which is only able to handle 2.000kg per load (compared to the traditional 4.000kg in Champagne) adds to this philosophy, as does the focus on aging in stainless steel and relatively low dosages for the wines (all below 5 grams residual sugar per liter). Reserve wines are generally kept to a minimum, often only going back a year or two and, according to Véronique, not really being reserve wines at all since they are stored at 13 °C – limiting oxidative development and tertiary characteristics. As the tasting note below of this wine confirms, they greatly succeeded in emphasizing the natural elegance and minerality of their Mesnil vineyards, while in no way giving up any concentration in their pursuit of elegance and precision.
About the Wine
Very pure and precise aromatics, intense and linear, just starting to open up and develop more warmth and complexity. Just over 10 years of age, the wine is still in its primary phase, aided by nearly seven years of reductive aging on the lees (bottled 03/2015, disgorged 02/2022). No noticeable oak. Lovely and layered aromatics of fresh lemon, yellow apple, salinity, smoke, citrus oil, fresh yellow pear, almond, and marzipan. Very wintry, with the cold citrus note and intense minerality being balanced by more generous and warm lees notes of toast, smoke, and pastry. Just starting to come around and open up. Floral notes of jasmine are also present, with a subtle honeysuckle note just starting to develop. Complex and very elegant, with a distinctively long finish. Made to last, with a great acid structure. Evolving in the glass, hinting at further aging potential. Classic Mesnil, and a great representation of the commune it hails from.
We reward this wine with a 94-point DWA score. Drink 2024-2039.
This review is written by our own Martin Bronkhorst. Champagne Philippe Glavier is sold in the Netherlands by Best of Wines, who we would like to thank for providing us with this wonderful Champagne.
Price: €62,92
Taste date: December 2024
Score: 94/100 DWA Score
Website: Champagne Philippe Glavier