SUADELA Wines and the Rise of Regional Italian Icons.

As one of the leading importing companies in the field of fine wines, Colaris never ceases to amaze us. With over a hundred years of experience in the business, their ability to attract and retain some of the best winemakers in the world to their portfolio comes as naturally as one takes a breath. More often than not, they find such treasures that we nearly feel obligated to write about them; this is the story about extraordinary winemakers who, united by a diverse group of friends from different nationalities, bottle their wines in cooperation with the same label attached to it, SUADELA. 

The Goddess of Persuasion

Suadela, in Roman mythology also known as Sueda, was perceived as the goddess of persuasion, particularly pertaining to romance. A perfectly suitable name for a cooperation between Italy’s finest winemakers with tons of collective experience at the greatest houses the country has seen, for their wines do exactly what one would expect of Suadela; they tempt you to take one sip, only to find yourself longing for an another one, and another after, until the bottle is fully finished and the yearning has not been satisfied yet. It will take little persuasion to pop another cork. 

Honoring Tradition and Forging a New Path

Charles Laurey, one of the co-founders of SUADELA, tells us the history of SUADELA, and how it only commences a little over eight years ago. What all started out as a group of friends who found themselves extremely interested in the diversity Italian wine has to offer, grew out to be a project with several winemakers of the highest caliber, producing wines attached to their own names, instead of the wineries they work for. The ultimate goal of SUADELA revolves around the promotion of specific regions of origin and the typicity of their wines, through some of the best oenologists these regions have put forth. 

In addition to the typicity of these regions, quality is, naturally, another factor that cannot be compromised. Striving towards the highest quality, the winemakers only fill approximately two thousand bottles with the nectar of the gods per cuvee. What else can one do, when their name, and even their face, are attached to a specific product? 

Crafting the Present and Elevating the Future

The first series of wines that were released to the public in 2021, comprised six wines from different vintages. Among them was a Cannonau from the island of Sardinia, made by Lorenzo Landi, which mysteriously went missing in the second series, even though it was widely praised by the likes of Jancis Robinson and many sommeliers in London. Ultimately, this resulted in the Cannonau being the first wine to be sold out, begging the question: why not release it again? The answer is simple: SUADELA focuses on highlighting several regions, meaning they cannot release each wine for every series. Fans of Lorenzo Landi’s Cannonau, do not fear: we might see it returning to the market shortly. 

Whereas the first two releases were a series of several wines, SUADELA now has plenty of cuvees, leading to them not necessarily having to conform to the idea of releasing several wines in a series. In the near future, we might expect them to release wines more often and separately from one another, only releasing the respective wine when it is regarded ready to be enjoyed. 

All potential wines are individually and blindly assessed by a tasting panel prior to release. This year, on January 21, the tasting panel made their final choices for the next release. As our interview with Charles Laurey took place before the above-mentioned date, we can only speculate what the following release holds in store for us. Will the Cannonau make its reappearance? Will we have another series of the most well-known wine regions of Italy, or will we enter the world of the obscure and find ourselves drinking lesser-known DOC’s and DOCG’s? One can only wonder. 

One thing Charles could tell us about the future of SUADELA, or rather, a side project, was that they were looking into rising stars in the Italian oenology scene and giving these prospects of future vinous excellence a platform on which they can showcase their skills, under the keen eye of their well-established mentors. We shall keep our eyes, ears and palates open to have you informed on the shortest notice, when the time comes. 

The Wines and their Makers

SUADELA and Colaris shared with us eight out of fourteen cuvee’s to taste and assess, with wines from both releases up to this day. 

2019 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi – Umberto Trombelli | 100% Verdicchio

Umberto Trombelli, having worked under the supervision of the legendary Giacomo Tachis himself, has definitely made a name for himself nowadays as a (consulting) oenologist. With experience in Sardinia, Tuscany, Veneto and the Marche, Trombelli virtually breathes Italian terroir and shows absolutely no trouble in putting forth the greatest of wines. 

The vines are approximately 45 years old in the 1.2 ha vineyard bearing the name of Castellaretta, that stands on deep, coastal clay and limestone soils at an altitude of 450 meters, with casually soft breezes coming through from the shallow Adriatic Sea. The wine ferments spontaneously and spends about 38 months in concrete vats. 

The 2019 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi is a prime example of what superior Verdicchio tastes like. A bright yellow color with notes of yellow apple, ripe peach, a hint of elderflower, a touch of bay leaf and grapefruit coming through towards the aftertaste, this wine contains all the complexity you could wish for. Grippy texture and medium to medium (+) acidity, that complement the creaminess. Extremely well balanced and wonderfully refreshing. 

We reward this wine with a 92-point DWA score

2020 Friuli Colli Orientali Bianco – Gianni Menotti | 40% Pinot Bianco, 25% Friulano, 20% Sauvignon Blanc & 15% Riesling Renano 

Gianni Menotti can do it all – skiing, playing tennis and making wine at the highest levels – but had to make a choice for himself. Luckily for us, his choice landed on vinification, and he now makes some of the greatest Friuli Colli Orientali. To fully develop himself as a oenologist, Menotti worked both in Italy and outside of Italy, including Burgundy and Champagne. He now consults for some of the greatest houses in his home province of Friuli and continues to make remarkable wines. 

The vines are located close to the Slovenian border and find themselves upon hills of marlstone soils. The grapes come from vines between the ages of 35 and 45 years old. Grape varieties are vinified and aged separately, mostly in stainless steel vats, partially in barriques and tonneaux. 

The 2020 Friuli Colli Orientali is delightfully refreshing and wonderfully aromatic. With a slightly yellow color, and aromas of gooseberry, honeysuckle, yellow apple and white melon, supported and contrasted by a leesy hint, adding to its body and creaminess. The whopping 14% ABV is hardly noticeable and integrated perfectly by the razor-sharp acidity. 

We reward this wine with a 90-point DWA score

2017 Chianti Classico – Gioia Cresti | 100% Sangiovese

Gioia Cresti completed studies in both Siena and Bordeaux and owns a winery with her brother near the southern border of the Chianti Classico region in the heart of Tuscany. Embodying the Latin credo “Do ut des”, roughly translated as “I give, so that you may give”, Cresti has always cared for the sustainability of her vineyards and greatly respects all organisms treading the vineyards and the vines. 

The grapes hail from a 1.5ha vineyard called “Montaperto” at an altitude of 380 meters, where the soil consists of limestone, calcareous rocks and layers of clay. The vines were planted over half a century ago by the grandfather of Gioia. Half of the wine was fermented in Orcio, traditional Tuscan 5hl terracotta amphorae, the other half was fermented in 15hl wooden casks. After fermentation, the wine first matured for six months in 15hl concrete tanks, after which it was transferred to 5hl tonneaux in which it stayed for another eighteen months.

The 2017 Chianti Classico shows a classic garnet red color and a great aromatic intensity, with notes of ripe cherries, herbaceousness of tomato leaf, oregano and bay leaf and an earthy, slightly dusty sensation of leather shining through. With medium (+), round and chalky tannins and a medium (+) acidity, the wine is impeccably balanced. A highly interesting Chianti Classico. 

We reward this wine with a 91-point DWA score

2015 Montecucco Sangiovese Riserva – Paolo Vagaggini | 100% Sangiovese

Paolo Vagaggini is nearly synonymous with sangiovese. A true master of this grape variety, Vagaggini worked for the likes of Biondi-Santi and he requires little introduction to those familiar with Tuscan excellence. After having worked all over the world, including Bordeaux, Paolo decided to settle in his home province and now holds vineyards in Montecucco and Montalcino, adjacent to the Greppo vineyards of his former employer. 

The vineyard yielding these grapes is called “Montegiovi” and 1.5ha large and has a north eastern exposition, at an altitude of 357 meters above sea level and clay soils mixed with rocks and calcareous remains. Vines are approximately twenty years old. First the wine was macerated for four weeks with a submerged cap. The wine was then aged for thirty months in French tonneaux. 

The 2015 Montecucco Sangiovese Riserva is an absolute powerhouse of a wine. Elegance and perfection are showcased in this typically garnet red (yet slightly intense color), through aromas of dried cherry, balsamic notes, oregano, bay leaf, tobacco, leather, tomato and ripe strawberry. With grainy, medium (+) tannins and complementary and equally high acidity, this wine stands at the very top of a highly underrated region.

We reward this wine with a 95-point DWA score

2015 Brunello di Montalcino – Paolo Vagaggini | 100% Sangiovese

The grapes hail from a tiny 0,5ha parcel called “Vigna Monsignore” at 320 meters elevation, where soils consist of clay and chalk and are fully exposed to the east. Vines are about twenty years old. Maceration was performed during the alcoholic fermentation at a maximum of 28 degrees Celsius for 21 days in 25hl casks with a submerged cap and gentle punch downs. After fermentation, the wine was aged in 50% old, 50% new tonneaux. 

Vagaggini’s 2015 Brunello di Montalcino is my absolute favorite from the entire line-up. It might just be my favorite Brunello I have tasted to this day. Classically crafted with aromas of dried cherry, dried tomatoes, leather, bay leaf, a tad of pepperiness, tomato leaf and oregano showing. The texture of the tannins is pleasantly sandy and reminds me of the very best of Brunelli. Excellence has far been surpassed in this tremendous wine. 

We reward this wine with a 97-point DWA score

2018 Rapsodia in Rosso II – Riccardo Cotarella | 33% Aglianico, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon & 33% Corvina 

To say Riccardo Cotarella is a staple in the Italian world of oenology, would be an incredible understatement. With over fifty years to his name in oenology, Cotarella nowadays still crafts the grandest of wines, and holds office as the president of the Italian Oenology Association, Assoenologi, and has a seat on the board of its international counterpart, Union Internationale des Oenologues, as the co-president. 

Cotarella shows he is a true master of Italian craftsmanship with his Rapsodia in Rosso II. Whereas the first Rapsodio in Rosso consists of 50% Syrah from Lazio, 30% merlot from Umbria and 20% sangiovese from Tuscany, Cotarella opted for a new blend and a completely new wine for his second Rapsodio in Rosso. The Aglianico comes from volcanic soils in Campania at an altitude of 250 meters; the cabernet sauvignon hails from Umbria, and its vines are rooted in calcareous soils at 220 meters high; whilst the corvina has clay and marl soils in Veneto at 180 meters. All wines are first vinified in stainless steel and aged separately for 18 months in French barriques. The only difference being the corvina grapes, fully in style with the region, dried for three months. 

The second Rapsodia in Rosso is a great wine for those who are fond of appassimento style wines. Aromas remind us of dried cassis, blueberries, raspberry, mint, chocolate, tomato leaf, vanilla and cloves. The little residual sugar left in the bottle is compensated for by the medium acidity and complemented by the ABV at 15,5% (!) and medium (+) tannins. Definitely not for the faint of heart and a superb alternative to the greatest of Amarone.

We reward this wine with a 90-point DWA score

2016 Barolo – Giuseppe Caviola | 100% Nebbiolo 

Giuseppe, A.K.A “Beppe”, was a true garagist in his twenties, where he vinified grapes in his parents’ garage. Caviola initially gained international attention with his superb Dolcetto, consequently being noticed for his Barbera and Barolo as well. He even wrote history, being one an advisor to many of the (in)famous “Barolo Boys” (depending on your own stance towards “modernists”). 

Caviola’s Barolo comes from the miniscule, 0.3ha large “Lu Snert” parcel in the commune of Novello. The vines of twelve years of age stand at an altitude of 420 meters above sea level and find their roots in sandy clay and chalky soils, exposed to the south and south east with plenty of sunshine to be enjoyed. The must macerates for 25 to 30 days with general pump-overs, after which fermentation takes place for 15 to 20 days with only 25% to 30% skin contact. Post fermentation, the wine is aged for 24 months in traditional large barrels and for another 12 months in concrete vats. 

Notes of ripe cherries, strawberries and cranberries come through in this beautiful Barolo. Adding to the complexity, we find aromas of tar, truffle and oregano. As classic as Barolo tannins get, these tannins are high and grippy but made up for by the typically high acidity, which also beautifully covers up the 14,5% ABV. Great balance, length and complexity in this well-crafted Barolo. 

We reward this wine with a 92-point DWA score.

2018 Barolo – Giuseppe Caviola | 100% Nebbiolo

The 2018 Barolo stems from the exact same parcel and is made in an identical way as the 2016 Barolo. 

In comparison to its 2016 counterpart, the Caviola’s 2018 Barolo shows more ripe strawberry, raspberry notes, with complementary aromas of smoke, leather and tomato leaf. As the ABV is 0,5% lower than the 2016 and acidity is remarkably higher, this wine is much more refreshing and shows more complexity. A wine for the ages. 

We reward this wine with a 94-point DWA score

2015 Taurasi – Lorenzo Landi | 100% Aglianico

Central to Lorenzo Landi’s beliefs regarding oenology, is that the absence of style forms the ideal style. In line with this point of view, Landi strives towards perfectly translating terroir into the wine, regardless of wherever he himself is located. During his Masters of Oenology, Landi did an apprenticeship at Olivier Leflaive and at Tollot-Beaut, after which he returned home to Italy to become one of the greatest (consulting) winemakers the country has witnessed thus far. 

The grapes for Landi’s Taurasi come from a 1.4ha large parcel named “Casale”, a vineyard that stands at 450 meters above sea level with full southern exposure. Post-harvest, fermentation takes place in stainless steel with a maceration of approximately 30 days. The wine is then transferred into 25hl French casks of three years old and left to age for 14 months. 

The 2015 Taurasi gives us all we could expect from a classic Taurasi: aromas of black cherry, plum, blackberries, bay leaf, smoke, leather and tomato leaf. Greatly present tannins and medium to medium (+) acidity leave the wine with a grippy texture. Superbly crafted. 

We reward this wine with a 93-point DWA score

Concluding SUADELA: A Vision in Motion, a Legacy in the Making

SUADELA proves to be a facilitator of greatness through some of the best winemakers Italy has to offer. With all their plans set in motion to accommodate the future, we can only sit and wonder what greatness SUADELA will share with the world next. One thing can be said with all certainty: whatever course they set upon, it will bring us more and more excellent wines. We have been seduced by SUADELA and cannot wait until more seduction finds its way back to us through their magnificent wines.

This article is written by our own Miquel Claase. SUADELA’s wines are distributed in, and available through Colaris. We would like to thank Charles Laurey of SUADELA for his contribution to this article and Colaris for their support.