Málaga to Jerez: Discovering Spain’s Wine Heritage.
Recently we were invited by the Spanish Wine Interprofessional Organisation (OIVE) to discover the World of Sherry, the beautiful D.O. Malaga, Sierras de Málaga & D.O. Jerez-Xérès-Sherry. On this journey we experienced the quality, authenticity, history and tradition of Spanish quality wines. All this through their project #AsharedPassion
Before we entered the world of Sherry, we were welcomed in Madrid with a masterclass about Spanish wines, conducted by Anna Granqvist, sommelier & Dip WSET Certified Educator. Anna took us along the different Northern wine regions from Rioja and Galicia to Rias Baixas. We got to learn and taste the versatility of Spanish wines. From Viura, the most important white variety from Rioja and mostly known under the name Macabeo, to Godello and Castellanca blanca, which is perceived as a suitable alternative to Chardonnay. Followed by Mencia in Galicia and Albariño, the dominating and popular grape in Rias Baixas.
After that it was time to move to the South of Spain!
Exploring the South of Spain
Our destination for this trip; Jerez, located in the Southernmost part of Spain. A world-renowned wine-producing area famous for its unique and storied tradition of sherry production. Situated in the province of Cádiz, Jerez enjoys a warm, dry climate and is blessed with chalky soils, which together create the ideal conditions for growing the region’s primary grape varieties: Palomino, Pedro Ximénez, and Muscat. Jerez is also the home of Sherry, of which you will hear a lot in this article!
Sherry is a fortified wine that stands out for its remarkable range of styles, from dry and crisp to sweet and luscious. What makes sherry so special is the distinctive aging process it undergoes, called “solera.” This technique involves blending wines from different years, creating a complex, layered flavor profile that develops over time. Sherry is aged in barrels under specific conditions, often exposed to the unique “flor” yeast, which gives it an unmistakable character. Throughout this intricate process, the climate, the soil, and the centuries-old winemaking traditions of the Jerez region all play a role in creating the distinctive and revered wines known as sherry.
Introduction to Sherry
When arrived at Jerez we were welcomed at the Sherry Academy for an introduction, conducted by Carmen Aumesquet (Director of Promotion of the Sherry Wine Regulatory Council). We started with a little history. Carmen explained that sherry has been produced in southern Spain for centuries, with origins dating back to the Phoenicians around 1100 BCE. However, the region and the wine itself became more refined and internationally recognized in later centuries. The first wine production in the Jerez region, in the Southwest of Spain, can be traced to the Phoenicians, who brought with them knowledge of viticulture and winemaking. They established trade routes through the Mediterranean and introduced wine to the Iberian Peninsula.
By the time the Romans arrived in the region, the area now known as Jerez de la Frontera was already recognized for its wine production. The Romans were influential in developing viticulture in the region, referring to the wine as “Xeres”—which eventually evolved into the English word “Sherry.”
The Taste of Sherry
Sherry offers an incredible diversity of styles and flavors. To help you better understand them, we are delighted to introduce the different types of Sherries we experienced firsthand in Jerez.
Fino is the driest and lightest style of Sherry. It is pale in color and typically has delicate, crisp, and refreshing flavors. Fino has a fresh, almond-like flavor with hints of green apple, herbs, and yeast due to the flor yeast that develops on top of the wine during aging. The flor protects the wine from oxidation, preserving its light and delicate nature. It is aged for around 4-5 years under the flor in the solera system. Fino is best served chilled and pairs well with seafood, tapas, and light dishes.
Manzanilla is a specific type of Fino that is produced in the coastal town of Sanlúcar de Barrameda, near Jerez. It is influenced by the salty air from the nearby ocean, which imparts a unique flavor. Manzanilla is very similar to Fino but tends to have a slightly briny, sea-like note along with the typical fresh and floral characteristics. Identical to Fino, Manzanilla is aged under the flor for around 4-5 years. It is served chilled and pairs beautifully with seafood, olives, and other light appetizers.
Amontillado begins as a Fino but undergoes an additional stage of aging after the flor dies off, allowing the wine to oxidize and develop deeper, more complex flavors. It has a medium to dry profile with nutty, caramelized, and slightly savory flavors. You may also detect hints of dried fruit, toasted wood, and subtle salinity. Amontillado is aged for a longer period than Fino and Manzanilla, typically around 8-12 years, starting under flor and then exposed to air after the flor dies. Amontillado is often served slightly chilled and pairs well with a wide variety of dishes, including rich meats, cheeses, and savory tapas.
Oloroso is a richer, darker style of Sherry that is aged without the flor, allowing for full oxidation. This results in a more robust and powerful flavor profile. Oloroso is full-bodied, with flavors of dark nuts, dried fruits (like raisins or figs), caramel, and spices. It can also have a slightly smoky, oaky character. Oloroso is aged for a longer period (usually between 12-20 years), often up to several decades. It is best served at room temperature or slightly chilled and is ideal with hearty foods, such as roasted meats, game, or rich cheeses.
Palo Cortado is a rare and intriguing style of Sherry that combines characteristics of both Amontillado and Oloroso. It starts aging under the flor like an Amontillado but loses the flor prematurely, leading to oxidation. It has the dryness and nutty qualities of an Amontillado with the richness and depth of an Oloroso. Expect flavors of almonds, hazelnuts, dried fruit, and a touch of spice. Palo Cortado is aged for 10-15 years. It is best enjoyed at room temperature, and pairs wonderfully with dishes like roast lamb, grilled meats, and strong cheeses.
Pedro Ximénez (PX) might be the most well-known sherry out there. It is the sweetest and most decadent style of sherry, made from sun-dried Pedro Ximénez grapes, which concentrate the sugars. It is intensely sweet, with flavors of dark chocolate, molasses, figs, raisins, and honey. The sweetness is balanced by a rich, velvety texture. PX is often aged for many years in the solera system, sometimes up to 20 years or more.Pedro Ximénez is typically served as a dessert wine, chilled or at room temperature, and pairs beautifully with rich desserts, chocolate, or even blue cheese.
Cream Sherry is a sweetened version of Oloroso. It is made by blending Oloroso with sweet wines, such as Pedro Ximénez, to give it a richer, sweeter profile. Cream sherry has flavors of dried fruit, brown sugar, and a smooth, velvety finish. It is less intense than pure PX but still quite sweet and round. Cream sherry is typically aged for several years, usually under the solera system. It is best served chilled and pairs well with chocolate desserts, nuts, or creamy cheeses.
Each of these styles of Sherry reflects the unique climate, soil, and winemaking traditions of Jerez, and they offer a wide range of flavors and experiences for those who seek it. Whether you prefer something light and crisp or rich and sweet, there is a Sherry to suit every palate. If you like a surprise try and pair Sherry with Asian cuisine.
Tasting the Richness of Southern Spain
Bodegas Tio Pepe – González Byass
During our time in Spain we visited many wineries, hotels and restaurants, that allowed us to experience the beauty of Spain.
In line with the long history of Jerez we start with the biggest winery of Spain Bodegas Tio Pepe – González Byass. Established in 1835 by Manuel Maria Gonzáles, it stands as a beacon of Jerez’s winemaking tradition. Located in the historic heart of Jerez de la Frontera, which has a unique terroir that is key to producing high-quality sherry. The region’s soil, known as albariza, is rich in limestone, providing excellent drainage and water retention. This is crucial for the vines, especially during the hot, dry summers. The combination of this soil, the Mediterranean climate, and the influence of the nearby Atlantic Ocean creates ideal conditions for growing the Palomino grape, which is the primary variety used in sherry production. Its unique charm lies in its Andalusian courtyards, trellis-lines streets and century-old cellars. And, to some extent, it’s peculiar ‘drunken mice’. Tio Pepe’s iconic logo, with the bottle clad in a red bolero, a Cordovan hat, and sporting a guitar, is very present in Spanish collective memory.
A tour through the cellars of Tio Pepe proves that a distinctive characteristic of many Sherries, especially Fino and Manzanilla, is the flor—a layer of yeast that forms on the surface of the wine during aging. This naturally occurring yeast provides a unique flavor profile, with notes of almonds, herbs, and bread. At Tío Pepe, the flor is encouraged in their cellars, creating the signature freshness and complexity of their Fino Sherry. Tio Pepe has barrels that are over 300 years old and are made from cherry wood, which is quite rare. Cherry wood barrels tend to impart a subtle, fruit-forward quality to the wine, which can add layers of complexity and a different aromatic profile. It can also contribute to softer mouthfeel and might lend a slightly sweet sensation to the wine. Combined with the terroir and climate conditions of Jerez make it makes a perfect environment for the flor to thrive, adding a sense of place and distinct signature of Tio Pepe to the wine.
Bodegas Williams & Humbert
Sir Alexander Williams and Arthur Humbert started this winery’s history in 1877, but for the last decades the Medina family has been in charge. With its century-old soleras, the main winery building is impressive by its contents, but also by its size. Build in 1974, it’s thought to be the largest of its kind in Europe, with over 180.000 square metres(!). Nestled in the heart of Jerez de la Frontera, Spain, Bodegas Williams & Humbert stands as one of the region’s most prestigious and historic Sherry producers. With a range of wines that includes their iconic “Dry Sack” brand, a rich and smooth Oloroso, and the elegant “Jerez-Xérès-Sherry” wines, Bodegas Williams & Humbert has cemented itself as a global leader in the world of fortified wines.
Jerez & Flamenco
Apart from Sherry, Jerez is also renowned for the art of flamenco. We visit Tabanco el Pasaje for traditional Spanish tapas and Flamenco dance. Tabancos are a very traditional sort of wine bar/store, specifically typical from Jerez. Established in 1925 -which means it will turn 100 this year-, Tabanco el Pasaje is the oldest one still standing. Original Art Nouveau touches, rustic furniture, local tapas and daily live flamenco performances enrich the already nostalgic yet lively atmosphere of this unique place. We enjoyed a Flamenco performance accompanied by local tapas and sherries.
Bodegas Barbadillo
With over two centuries of history- Bodegas Brabadillo was established in 1821 by Benigno Barbadillo-, this winery is arguably the highlight of Sanlúcar de Barrameda, the birthplace of manzanilla. With its 500 hectares of vineyards and more than 30,000 botas, this historic winery is renowned for its high quality sherry production and one of the leading producers of sherry in the region. It is particularly famous for its Fino and Manzanilla wines. The bodega’s philosophy revolves around preserving traditional winemaking methods while embracing innovation. They are committed to quality, craftsmanship, and sustainability, with a deep respect for the unique terroir of the region. Barbadillo combines rich heritage with modern techniques to produce wines, such as temperature-Controlled Fermentation: Barbadillo uses advanced temperature-controlled fermentation systems to preserve the aromatic qualities of the grapes, ensuring optimal fermentation and consistency in the wine. They also incorporate innovative aging processes: While they continue to use traditional solera systems for aging, Barbadillo also experiments with modern barrel-aging methods and materials, such as new types of oak, to enhance the complexity and flavor profile of their wines. The most valuable are their sustainable practices, The winery is committed to sustainability, incorporating eco-friendly techniques like using solar energy, minimizing water consumption, and promoting organic vineyard practices where possible. By combining these modern techniques with their rich heritage, Bodega Barbadillo produces wines that maintain their traditional character while embracing innovation.
Bodegas Málaga Virgen
We conclude our journey in Málaga. A family-run winery since 1885, spanning five generations, it specializes in sweet and dry wines, as well as brandies. Their flagship is of course the Málaga Virgen, a sweet Pedro Ximénez, but Sol de Málaga -more targeted to the international markets- and Trajinero also stand out. They own 125 hectares in the Vista Hermosa estate and control another 125 through agreements with local viticultors.
The vineyards of Bodegas Málaga Virgen are situated in the fertile hillsides of the Axarquía, a mountainous area with a Mediterranean climate that is ideal for grape growing. The unique terroir, with its combination of sunny weather, cool nights, and the influence of the sea breeze, results in wines with rich, aromatic profiles.
Conclusion
Our journey from Málaga to Jerez offered a profound glimpse into the soul of Spanish wine culture. From the vibrant masterclass in Madrid to the sun-soaked vineyards of Andalusia, every step revealed a deep connection to history, tradition, and a tireless passion for winemaking. We tasted the freshness of Fino, the maritime character of Manzanilla, the depth of Oloroso, and the luscious sweetness of Pedro Ximénez — each style telling its own rich story of land and craftsmanship.
Visiting iconic producers like Tío Pepe, Williams & Humbert, Barbadillo, and Málaga Virgen, we witnessed firsthand the blend of age-old techniques and modern innovation that continue to define Spain’s great wine regions. Along the way, flamenco, local cuisine, and the warm hospitality of Andalusia reminded us that wine here is not just a beverage, but a way of life.
We are grateful to the Spanish Wine Interprofessional Organisation (OIVE) for inviting us to experience the magic of D.O. Málaga, Sierras de Málaga, and D.O. Jerez-Xérès-Sherry — and to share with you the beauty, authenticity, and passion that make Spanish wines truly unforgettable.
¡Salud!
This article is written by our own Kirsten Andringa. We would like to thank the Spanish Wine Interprofessional Organisation (OIVE) for inviting us to discover the beautiful D.O. Malaga, Sierras de Málaga & D.O. Jerez-Xérès-Sherry and experience the quality, authenticity, history and tradition of Spanish wines!
