Antinori’s Coastal Vision: Inside Tenuta di Biserno.
On a bright May afternoon, Dutch wine media and trade professionals gathered at Gastrovino La Liguria Scheveningen, upon invitation by Dutch distributor Wine & Spirits. The dining room had been set for something special. A glass of Ca’del Bosco Cuvée Prestige Franciacorta greeted us, while a row of polished Super-Tuscan bottles stood beside a vineyard map, inviting us to picture the sun-baked coastal hills. At the centre of it all was Manlio Della Serra, ready to guide us through a masterclass tasting of Tenuta Di Biserno.
In this article, we invite you into the world of Super-Tuscans and the Biserno project, launched by the Antinori family. We explore the history, terroir, philosophy, and flavour behind these wines—highlighting its iconic namesake wine and a new cuvée presented for the very first time in the Netherlands.
Setting the Stage for Biserno
For more than six centuries, the Antinori family has guided Italian wine, blending deep-rooted tradition with bold innovation. Their modern influence began in the 1970s, when Marchese Piero Antinori defied rigid DOC rules by releasing Tignanello—a Sangiovese-Cabernet blend that helped ignite the Super-Tuscan revolution on Tuscany’s warm, sea-cooled coast. His brother Lodovico soon followed, founding Ornellaia in Bolgheri (and later the cult Merlot Masseto), where Bordeaux varieties reach full ripeness yet retain vibrant freshness.
That same boundary-pushing spirit led Lodovico further north, to the hilly maritime soils of Bibbona, where he established Tenuta di Biserno—a site he believed ideal for Cabernet Franc and the other Bordeaux varieties. Biserno embodies everything the Super-Tuscan movement made possible—freedom from rigid blending laws, meticulous vineyard work, and precise French-oak élevage—while expressing its own coastal-Mediterranean identity. With Biserno, the Antinori narrative evolves from rebellion to refinement, delivering a wine at the cutting edge of Tuscan elegance today.
The Biserno Project and the Antinori Legacy
The Biserno venture began in 2001, shortly after the sale of Ornellaia to the Mondavi/Frescobaldi partnership. Brothers Piero and Lodovico Antinori, together with their nephew Niccolò Marzichi Lenzi (now CEO), recognised the untapped potential of Bibbona. Planting commenced under the guidance of Bordeaux consultant Michel Rolland, and the first flagship Biserno debuted with the 2006 vintage. In late 2024 the family amicably divided their projects: Lodovico created the micro-estate and kept the single-vineyard wine “Lodovico” while day-to-day control of Biserno passed to Niccolò. Today Niccolò oversees roughly 100 hectares—40 ha at Biserno, 56 ha at Campo di Sasso, and 15 ha at Collemezzano—supported by a 70-person team.
Tenuta di Biserno itself lies just three kilometres north of Bolgheri, its south-facing vineyards rising to roughly 60–90 m above sea level. Constant sea breezes from the Tyrrhenian, only seven kilometres away, moderate Maremma’s heat and help preserve acidity. Alluvial clay-limestone soils, laced with chalky pebbles, drain efficiently yet retain enough moisture to sustain vines through the dry Tuscan summer. Farther north, the newer Collemezzano block (first commercial vintage 2021) sits on sandy, windswept soils—mineral-rich but low in organic matter—yielding wines noted for finesse and aromatic lift.
“Our climate is a study in balance,” Manlio notes. “Average summer highs hover around 28 °C, but diurnal swings of 12–15 °C preserve vibrancy.” Since 2015, targeted replanting has delivered Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon with full phenolic ripeness, and strikingly fresh pH levels.
Tasting the Portfolio
As we moved into the portfolio tasting, a beautifully designed lunch from Gastrovino La Liguria paired with each wine.
Occhione 2024 | 100% Vermentino
From Campo di Sasso’s sand and pebble soils, this Vermentino is fermented in stainless steel and harvested in two stages—early for acidity, later for flavour.
Aromas of Meyer lemon, blood orange, grapefruit, orange blossom, Mediterranean herbs, white peach, and a hint of pineapple. Creamy core from 10 months on lees is lifted by briny, high-pitched acidity. Long, mouth-watering finish.
Pairing: Corvina fish, asparagus, lemon beurre blanc. — the wine’s bright citrus lift and sea-spray salinity echo the dish’s zesty lemon notes and subtle coastal nuances.
DWA score: 92/100
Rissoa Rosato 2024 | Cabernet Franc & Syrah
Fermented in stainless steel and aged on fine lees for thirty days, followed by an additional two months of stainless-steel maturation.
A rosé with sunset coral hue. Aromas of strawberry, cranberry, raspberry, pink grapefruit, apricot, floral notes, clove, and strawberry yoghurt. The palate is dry and savoury, with bright acidity, silky tannins, and a mineral finish.
Pairing: Scampi, langoustine, bisque, saffron. — the wine’s savoury depth amplifies the scampi’s umami, while its fragrant lift sets a striking aromatic counterpoint to the saffron-rich bisque.
DWA score: 90/100
Insoglio 2023 | Syrah-led blend with Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot
The “everyday luxury” cuvée. Aged 3–4 months in seasoned barriques.
Blackcurrant, plum, violet, Mediterranean herbs, cocoa, and pepper. Medium-bodied, ripe tannins, juicy fruit. Produced in large volume (300,000 bottles) to meet global demand.
Pairing: Homemade ravioli, truffle, sage. — the ravioli’s delicate herbal notes mirror the savoury, sage-tinged nuances already woven into Insoglio.
DWA score: 91/100
Il Pino di Biserno 2022 | Cabernet Franc (30%), Merlot (30%), Cabernet Sauvignon (30%), Petit Verdot (10%)
Often called “baby Biserno,” but far from simple. Fermented and macerated in stainless steel tanks and aged for about seven months, partly in steel and partly old wood.
Intense ruby colour. Cassis, blackberry, graphite, Mediterranean herbs, and a flicker of pepper spices. Generous and integrated on the palate, balanced with energetic acidity, silky tannins. Approachable at this stage, yet has further ageing potential for at least five years.
DWA score: 92/100
Biserno 2020 | Predominantly Cabernet Franc, followed by Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Petit Verdot
From old vines on clay-limestone conglomerate. Fermented in steel and matured in 85% new French oak for 12 months.
Initially reserved, yet its concentration and refinement evoke a blend of Napa-like richness and Bolgheri finesse—blackcurrant, plum and pencil shavings. With time in the glass, fragrant herbs and violet appear, joined by deeper layers of dark fruit, sweet spices and toasted notes. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins, vibrant acidity and a long, persistent mineral finish.
Pairing: Lamb chop, artichokes, new potatoes. — the wine’s succulent dark-fruit core and earthy undertones echo the lamb’s juiciness and mushroom depth, seamlessly uniting food and glass.
DWA score: 96/100
Collemezzano 2021 | Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon
From a 15-ha parcel north of Cecina. Sandy soils and constant breezes give natural elegance. Source grapes from old vine at 10 km north of Bibbona at 80–120 above sea level. Fermentation in steel and aged in French oak barriques for 12–16 months and then additional bottle ageing for at least 12 months. Only 3,000 bottles produced.
Complex and elegant aromas, featuring red currant, violet, graphite, sweet spice, a hint of balsamic. Airy texture with depth, fine-grained tannins, mineral-driven length. Impeccable balance between restrained power and finesse. More in the Bordeaux style.
DWA score: 95/100
Conclusion
Tenuta di Biserno sits at the crossroads of tradition and innovation. Born from the Antinori family’s creative legacy, rooted in Bolgheri’s stony soils, and free from DOC constraints, it reflects the spirit of the original Super Tuscan revolution—quality first, bureaucracy second.
Its coastal terroir gives Cabernet Franc an unusually consistent depth and complexity. Furthermore, from the crisp, briny Vermentino to the age-worthy flagship blends, Biserno’s portfolio marries Mediterranean richness with Atlantic precision. With a clearly tiered range—from the approachable Campo di Sasso to the scarce Collemezzano—the estate invites us to explore and progress within a single brand, opening the door to the world of fine wine.
This article was written by our own Kazumi Uejo. Special thanks to Manlio Della Serra of Tenuta Di Biserno for his insights, Wine & Spirits (especially Ilonka Hannewijk) for the invitation, and the team at Gastrovino La Liguria Scheveningen for their warm hospitality and exceptionally paired lunch.
Tenuta Di Biserno is imported and distributed in The Netherlands by Wine & Spirits. Photography by Wine & Spirits and Dutch Wine Apprentice.
