An Afternoon of Exceptional Wines with De Bruijn in Wijnen

An Afternoon of Exceptional Wines with De Bruijn in Wijnen.

De Bruijn in Wijnen, the oldest independent wine merchant in the Netherlands, boasts a rich history deeply rooted in French wines, forged through long-standing relationships with esteemed producers. In recent years, the younger generation has infused the business with fresh energy and passion, broadening the portfolio to include exceptional wines from Spain, Portugal, Austria, and Germany.

De Bruijn in Wijnen: Masters of Fine Wine Since 1772

De Bruijn in Wijnen, the oldest independent wine merchant in the Netherlands, is a name synonymous with tradition, quality, and exclusivity. Established in 1772 by Stephan Petrus de Bruijn, this family-owned business has flourished over seven generations, becoming a cornerstone of the Dutch wine industry. With its roots deeply embedded in French winemaking, De Bruijn has cultivated long-standing relationships with some of France’s most iconic wineries. This dedication to excellence earned the company the prestigious title of Royal Warrant Holder in 1952, a distinction it holds with pride to this day.

Under the leadership of Eric de Bruijn, the seventh generation at the helm, the company has expanded its portfolio to include exceptional wines from regions beyond France. Spain, Portugal, Italy, Austria, and Germany now feature prominently, reflecting a modern and diverse approach while staying true to the artisanal values that define De Bruijn’s legacy. The team’s meticulous selection process ensures that every wine tells a story—one of unique terroir, craftsmanship, and the passion of its producer.

For over 250 years, De Bruijn in Wijnen has been more than just a wine merchant; it has been a curator of experiences, offering clients a personal connection to the world of fine wine. Whether advising private collectors on building bespoke cellars, creating memorable corporate gifts, or partnering with top-tier restaurants, De Bruijn in Wijnen consistently delivers expertise, authenticity, and impeccable service.

As the company celebrates its remarkable 250th anniversary, its historic premises in Nijmegen stand as a testament to its enduring legacy. From the original wine cellars to the carefully preserved historical artifacts, every corner of De Bruijn in Wijnen speaks to the rich history of this venerable institution. The past, present, and future of fine wine converge here, creating a space where tradition meets innovation.

The Tasting

Last autumn, we had the privilege of attending their portfolio tasting event at CUE Amsterdam. Here, we share some of the most exciting discoveries from this remarkable showcase.

Domaine Sylvain Pataille

At the forefront of organic and biodynamic wine making principles, we have no one other than Marsannay-based Sylvain Pataille, who has been making wine since 1999. With a domain spanning about 14 hectares of vines, Sylvain makes beautiful low-intervention wines, only using indigenous yeasts and shying away from adding sulfur as much as possible during both vinification and bottling. Before tasting, Sylvain sniffed out the wine and immediately checked the biodynamic calendar; it was a flower day. The grape on the cake for what would be an exquisite portfolio tasting. 

2020 Aligoté Champ Forey

Soil of gravel and pebbles, with old vines that were planted in the 1930’s, ‘50s and ‘60s. Tiny plot of only 0.3 hectares at 250-meter altitude. Vertical pressing and aged in old wooden casks for 12 months. Only slightly sulphured at bottling. 

Nose of ripe red apples, apple skins, ripe quince, nutmeg and struck match. High concentration of fruits. Very elegant, with vibrant acidity and a tad more body than the regular Aligoté.

We reward this wine with a 93-point DWA score (MC).

2020 Marsannay le Chapitre

A subsoil of wet, iron-rich soil of clay on limestone. On top, we find crushed gravel that easily heats up during warm days. The vineyard’s located north of the village and was only included in the Marsannay appellation from 2019 onwards. Aged for 12 to 18 months on the fine lees, 33% new oak. 

Ripe yellow apples and struck match dominate the nose, with crushed gravel and mandarin orange coming in slowly, but surely, as the wine develops in the glass. The wine carries more weight on the palate than the Marsannay Blanc and performs wonderfully. 

We reward this wine with a 92-point DWA score (MC).

Sylvain Pataille showing his Marsannay wines.
Sylvain Pataille (left) showing his Marsannay wines.

2018 Bourgogne Rouge le Chapitre

Grapes come entirely from the Marsannay appellation, despite being bottled under the Bourgogne AOC. Aged for 18 months in barrels with 33% in new oak. 

The nose reveals ripe cherry, raspberry, dried leaves, nutmeg and violets, which the palate confirms. Smooth, rich texture with fairly high acidity balancing out the intensity and chalky tannin, adding to the elegance of this great wine. 

We reward this wine with a 94-point DWA score (MC).

2020 Marsannay Rouge Clos du Roy

Iron-rich soil mixed in with pebbles in the most northerly lieu-dit of Marsannay. Exposition to the east and northeast on slightly inclined slopes. 100% whole bunch fermentation, 18 months in barrel and another 6 months to settle in stainless steel before bottling. Bottled with minimal sulphur usage. 

Ripe, red fruits on the nose, with baking spices and forest floor subtly coming through. Medium bodied with a smooth texture and soft, ripe tannins. 

We reward this wine with a 92-point DWA score (MC).

2018 Marsannay Rouge l’Ancestrale

The vines for this wine are between 60 and 80 years old. 100% whole bunch fermentation, gently pressed and aged for 24 months in barrel, of which 50% is new oak. 

Incredibly complex on the nose with baking spices and forest floor. After a while, the wine opened up and showed more fruit sensations of ripe cherry, cranberry and strawberry. The tannins were perfectly ripe, acidity high yet pleasant. 

We reward this wine with a 95-point DWA score (MC).

Château du Moulin-à-Vent

The Beaujolais region has shifted focus to showcase the Gamay grape’s full potential and unique terroir. Over eight years, the region collected 1,000 Gamay clones and studied soils, earning UNESCO Global Geopark status in 2018. Today, Beaujolais is celebrated for terroir-driven wines that highlight its geological diversity.

Château du Moulin-à-Vent, spanning 37 hectares, exemplifies this excellence. With vines aged 55–100 years on granite soils, the estate produces low-yield wines of exceptional concentration, complexity, and aging potential, solidifying Beaujolais as a dynamic wine region.

2020 Champ de Cour

100% Gamay

Slightly stony mix soil of ancient alluvial-colluvial deposits. Averaging 35 years of vine age, they thrive on an east-facing slope at 220 meters altitude, protected from the wind.

The nose reveals a medley of crushed strawberry, blueberry, and mulberry, accented by sweet spice. Opulent and juicy palate by fresh acidity, distinct salivating minerality. Great balance between power and elegance.

We reward this wine with a 92-point DWA score (KU).

2021 La Rochelle

100% Gamay

Deep clay soils over the granite rock. Very old vines with 85-year-old vines are on a windswept southern slope.

Aromatic and elegant, with rose petals, cherries, blueberries, cinnamon, and a hint of dill. Concentrated and complex, with vibrant, high acidity providing structure. A long finish unveils distinctive mineral undertones, adding to its depth and character.

We reward this wine with a 93-point DWA score (KU).

Château du Moulin-à-Vent together with their wines from Roc des Boutières.
Château du Moulin-à-Vent together with their wines from Roc des Boutières.

Roc des Boutières

The Parinet family of Château du Moulin-à-Vent expanded their vineyard holdings in Pouilly-Fuissé, having been producing wines here since 2017 under Roc des Boutières.

Pouilly-Fuissé 1er Cru ‘Aux Bouthières’

‘Aux Bouthières’ was one of 22 sites elevated to Premier Cru status in 2020. Higher altitude (250-500m) than many other AOCs in Bourgogne. The limestone-rich clay soils and southwest exposure further enhance the quality of the wines.

Ripe stone fruits and zesty citrus mingle with subtle hints of vanilla and hazelnuts. Opulent yet refined, marked by a distinct minerality, taut high acidity, a creamy texture, and a long finish and offering both structure and elegance.

We reward this wine with a 94-point DWA score (KU).

Poderi e Cantine Oddero

The seventh generation of the Oddero family is slowly taking the wheel of this renowned titan from the Langhe under the leadership of Isabella and Pietro, with the guidance of matron Mariachristina, who entered the family business more than 20 years ago. Regarded as one of the Barolo traditionalists, Oddero holds at around 35 ha of vineyards in the Langhe and Asti. Nearly half of their vineyards are dedicated to the grand sire of Piemonte: nebbiolo. 

Barolo producer Oddero with some exciting wines.
Barolo producer Oddero with some exciting wines.

2020 Barolo

Grapes come from La Morra and Castiglione Faletto Bricco. Spontaneous fermentation in slavonian, neutral oak barrels, as Oddero’s Barolo never ferments or ages in new wood. First passage in the wood is always done by their Barbera. Depending on the vintage, fermentation takes place with a submerged cap and slow pumpovers, given all grapes arrive in good health at the winery. If done so, maceration takes place for about 32 to 35 days. 

In every way a true Barolo, with a nose of crisp cherry, violets, tar and earthy aromas. Gripping mouthfeel, due to the racy acidity and plentiful, round tannins. 

We reward this wine with a 92-point DWA score (MC).

2019 Barolo Villero

Small plot of 0,8 ha at an altitude of 280 meter above sea level in Castiglione Faletto, with soils rich in sandstone, marl and clay. Submerged cap fermentation in neutral oak. 

On the nose, amarena cherry, violets, rose petals and strawberry, with a touch of the typical Barolo tar coming through towards the end. Refreshing acidity to compensate for the firm structure given by the tannins. Great length and wonderful complexity. 

We reward this wine with a 94-point DWA score (MC).

2017 Barolo Bussia Vigna Mondoca Riserva

Old vines of approximately 35 years old from the Bussia cru. 30 days of fermentation and aged in large Slavonian and Austrian oak vessels for 36 months. Afterwards, the wine ripens a little more in the bottle after which it is released. 

Incredibly complex nose, with tar chamomile, rosemary and cherry popping up initially. After a while in the glass, notes of strawberry, dried violets and truffle came through to add to the hotpot of scents. On the palate, loads of grip from the tannins that will definitely need some more time. Nevertheless, a Barolo for the ages and one of our favorites of the day. 

We reward this wine with a 96-point DWA score (MC).

2020 Barolo Brunate

Grapes come from a tiny plot of 0,5 ha at the highest point in La Morra. Fermentation and aging done in large Austrian and Slavonian oak barrels of 20hL for about 30 months. 

Another great example of terroir-driven Barolo with a fruit-forward character, giving ripe cherry, juicy raspberry and strawberries right off the bat. Tar, rose petals and mint play second fiddle, but shine through elegantly. Signature high acidity balancing out the alcoholic content and ripe, grainy tannins. 

We reward this wine with a 92-point DWA score (MC).

2017 Barolo Vignarionda Riserva

Grapes from old vines planted somewhere in the 1970’s. Aged for 40 months in large Slavonian oak vessels. 

Extremely well-made wine showing precision and balance in every way. The fruit shows elegantly, with aromas of cherry and raspberry, and herbaceous, earthy tones of mint, truffle and tar appear after a couple of sniffs. Tannins initially dominate the palate, but are reined in by the refreshing acidity, adding to the immense complexity this wine carries. 

We reward this wine with a 96-point DWA score (MC).

Caiarossa

With 40 ha of vines, 34 ha of forest, 20 ha of wildflower meadows and 6 ha of olive gardens, biodiversity is at large at Caiarossa, which has been under the ownership of the Albada Jelgersma family since 2004. Their name dedicated to mother earth (Gaia) and the red soil in the area, and their label showcasing the head of an Etruscan statue of Dionysos, the wines too make a certain mythological impression. 

Marc Verpaalen showcasing the Tuscan Stars of Caiarossa.
Marc Verpaalen showcasing the Tuscan Stars of Caiarossa.

2019 Pergolaia

76% Sangiovese, 18% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot

Chalky, sandstone soils. Fermented with indigenous yeasts and macerated for about 15 to 25 days. Aged for 12 months in large casks of 15 and 25 hectoliter. Then another 4 months in concrete tanks. 

The glass is filled with scents of ripe cassis, plum, cherry, nutmeg, toast, a hint of green bell pepper and terra cotta. Fairly bold body, which is balanced out by the racy acidity. Medium plus tannins, with a slightly grainy texture.

We reward this wine with a 89-point DWA score (MC).

2020 Aria di Caiarossa

32% Cabernet Franc, 24% Merlot, 19% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Syrah, 7% Grenache Noir

Incredibly complex soil consisting of schist, volcanic parts, clay, marl and chalk. Long maceration of 15 to 25 days. Grapes are vinified separately and blended before aging in barriques. 80% old and 20% new. 

Notes of black pepper, blueberries, cassis and plum initially on the nose. Slightly lactic and a hint of green bell pepper. High in tannins with a chalky structure and a long lasting finish.

We reward this wine with a 91-point DWA score (MC).

2019 Caiarossa

26% Syrah, 24% Cabernet Franc, 23% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Petit Verdot, 4% Sangiovese, 2% Grenache.

All grape varieties separately vinified in concrete tanks or oak, slowly fermented and extracted. After malolactic conversion, the ultimate blend is decided on and aged for 14 months in barriques. After aging, the wine settles for two months in concrete tanks before bottling takes place. 

A true tête de cuvées, with ripe cassis, plum, nutmeg, mint and baking spices filling the nose. Loads of weight on the palate with a slightly creamy texture and big, bold and round tannins filling the mouth. Intense, complex and a true masterpiece.

 

We reward this wine with a 95-point DWA score (MC).

Podere Le Ripi

Francesco Illy, a member of the renowned Illy coffee family, turned his dream into a shared vision embraced by many. After more than a decade of meticulous research, Podere Le Ripi now produces exceptional wines from the eastern and western slopes of the southern Montalcino. While crafting Brunello in Montalcino is a long-standing tradition, the use of biodynamic farming represents a bold, modern approach.

Podere Le Ripi Showcasing their Montalcino Wines.
Podere Le Ripi Showcasing their Montalcino Wines.

2017 Cielo d’Ulisse Brunello di Montalcino

100% Sangiovese.

The soils are a mix of schist and limestone, transitioning from blue galestro to alberese. Fermentation in large open-top casks for 40 days, followed by 24 months of aging in oak barrels and 20 months in cement tanks.

Complex nose with ripe black and red cherries, rose, violet, tomato leaf, balsamic notes, and mixed spices on the nose. Harmonious mouthfeel, with earth, dried flower flavors, all framed by velvety tannins and vibrant acidity.

We reward this wine with a 91-point DWA score (KU).

2016 Amore e magia Brunello di Montalcino

100% Sangiovese.

Oceanic marl rich in clay and limestone soil. Fermentation and maceration for 50 days in big open-tops oak barrels, followed by 33 months of aging in the bigger barrel, 12 months in cement vats, and a minimum aging of 12 months in bottle.

Lots of crisp fruit aromas, reminiscent of cool climate fruits, sour cherry, cranberry, violet, balsamic, walnuts, dried-flower, mixed spices on the nose. Succulent on the palate with rich powdery tannins.

We reward this wine with a 92-point DWA score (KU).

2016 Lupi e Sirene Brunello di Montalcino Riserva

100% Sangiovese.

The soils are brown marl, slightly alkaline with granitic soil. 36 months aging in oak barrels, followed by aging for 12 months in cement and 16 months in the bottle.

Multilayered nose, with teach leaf, tobacco, dried herbs, spices in addition to small red fruits such as cherries, violet, rose, iron. Smooth and polished on the palate, with a very long finish. Sophisticated.  

We reward this wine with a 94-point DWA score (KU).

Muchada-Léclapart

Founded in 2016, Muchada-Léclapart is a unique collaboration between Alejandro Muchada, a Spanish winegrower, and David Léclapart, a celebrated Champagne producer. Together, they focus on crafting unfortified white wines using biodynamic practices with old vines in Sanlúcar de Barrameda, the heart of sherry country. Despite being a relatively young winery, their wines have garnered critical acclaim, with some predicting they become future cult wines.

The Exciting Wines of Muchada-Léclapart.
The Exciting Wines of Muchada-Léclapart.

2019 Étoile

100% Palomino Fino

Lustrillos and Lentejuela albariza soils. Average 50 years of vine age. Spontaneous fermentation and aging for 12 months in old Manzanilla casks or used French barrels. No filtered. Minimum sulfur usage.

Intense aromas by yellow apple, lemon zest, chamomile, almond, pickles, and bread dough. Bone-dry with medium acidity, a phenolic edge, and a textured mouthfeel. Hint of yeast to add complexity with a lingering finish.

We reward this wine with a 92-point DWA score (KU).

2019 Lumière

100% Palomino Fino

Vines averaging 70 years old, rooted in Lustrillos soils with calcareous tosca cerrada subsoils of albariza. Fermentation and aging in used Bordeaux barrels for 9–10 months. No filtered. Minimum sulfur usage.

Multidimensional nose, revealing layers of yellow apple, orange peel, gunpowder, reductive, chamomile, pickles, dried pineapple, subtle vanilla. Beautifully balanced and well-integrated, with salivating acidity and a pronounced saline finish.

We rate this wine with a 93-point DWA score (KU).

2019 Elixir

100% Moscatel de Chipiona

Clay and sandy soils. Vine ages are 45-years-old. Fermented in used Bordeaux barrels for 9-10 months. No filtered. Minimum sulfur usage.

Aromatic and expressive with grape, apricot, lemon zest, bruised apple, blossom, spice, wet stone. Playful palate with medium acidity and textures. Long finish.

We rate this wine with a 92-point DWA score (KU).

De Bruijn in Wijnen: A Showcase of Excellence and Unrivaled Hospitality

Once again, De Bruijn in Wijnen demonstrated their unparalleled access to some of the world’s most exquisite wineries. The portfolio tasting in Amsterdam showcased nothing short of excellence, leaving us eager to explore more of their remarkable selections. A heartfelt thanks to Jesaja Alberto and Laurent Richet (MS) for their warm hospitality and for guiding us through the day’s impressive lineup.

This article is written by our own Miquel Claase and Kazumi Uejo. We thank De Bruijn in Wijnen. The producers and wines mentioned in this article are available through selected retail and hospitality partners of De Bruijn in Wijnen in the Netherlands. Picture credits Stefan Seegers and De Bruijn in Wijnen.

De Bruijn in Wijnen tasting at CUE Amsterdam.