A Vertical Journey into Amarone Mastery with the Accordini Family.
When Valpolicella calls you answer. This beautiful region in northern Italy is known for its stunning reds, amongst which Amarone holds a special place. Recently we had the privilege of attending an exceptional Amarone Masterclass, hosted by the esteemed Stefano Accordini winery.
The occasion featured a vertical tasting of Amarone wines, meticulously organized in collaboration with Twentsch Wijnhuis, at the Cas Spijkers Academie in Breda.
The Story of the Accordini Family
The tasting was hosted by Tiziano Accordini, the son of Stefano Accordini. The history of the Stefano Accordini winery dates back to the early 1900s when Gaetano Accordini, a sharecropper, began producing wine in the Valpolicella region of Italy. In the 1970s, his son Stefano purchased the family’s first vineyard, “Il Fornetto,” in the Negrar Valley, marking the official establishment of the winery. Today, the winery is managed by the fourth generation of the Accordini family, who cultivate 27 hectares of vineyards in the Valpolicella Classica region. Situated at elevations between 500 and 600 meters, these are among the highest vineyards in the area. The unique climatic conditions and soil composition at these altitudes contribute to the distinctive character of their wines. In addition to their commitment to quality wine production, the Accordini family emphasizes environmental sustainability. All their vineyards are cultivated using organic methods, and their agritourism establishment, Acinatico Wine Relais, operates on energy obtained from solar panels. For visitors interested in experiencing their wines firsthand, the winery offers guided tours and tastings in the heart of Valpolicella.
Valpolicella, the Home of Amarone
The Valpolicella region, nestled in the Veneto area of northeastern Italy, is renowned for its exceptional wines and picturesque landscapes. Often called the “pearl of Verona,” Valpolicella stretches from the Adige River to the foothills of the Lessini Mountains. Its rolling hills, historic villages, and terraced vineyards create a stunning backdrop that attracts wine lovers and tourists alike. The region is most famous for producing Valpolicella wines, ranging from the light and fruity Valpolicella Classico to the robust and complex Amarone della Valpolicella. The area’s unique blend of soil, altitude, and climate allows for the cultivation of indigenous grape varieties such as Corvina, Rondinella, and Molinara. Additionally, traditional winemaking techniques like appassimento—where grapes are dried to concentrate their flavors—add to the distinctiveness of Valpolicella wines.
Amarone della Valpolicella
Amarone della Valpolicella, often referred to simply as Amarone, is one of Italy’s most prestigious and sought-after red wines. Hailing from the Valpolicella region in Veneto, this wine is a testament to the art of winemaking, combining tradition, technique, and terroir to produce something truly exceptional. Amarone is crafted using the appassimento method, where hand-selected Corvina, Rondinella, and often Molinara grapes are dried on wooden racks or in ventilated rooms for several months. This process concentrates the sugars and flavors in the grapes, resulting in a wine with remarkable richness, complexity, and depth. Amarone wines are full-bodied with a velvety texture and a high alcohol content, typically ranging from 14% to 16%. On the palate, they offer bold flavors of dried fruits like figs, raisins, and cherries, complemented by hints of dark chocolate, tobacco, spices, and sometimes a subtle nuttiness. The aging process, often spanning several years in oak barrels, adds additional layers of complexity, such as notes of vanilla, cedar, and balsamic.
Despite its richness, Amarone retains a balanced elegance, with a fine interplay of sweetness from the concentrated fruit and a dry, structured finish. It pairs beautifully with robust dishes such as roasted meats, game, aged cheeses, and risottos, making it a favorite for special occasions and refined dining experiences. Amarone embodies the essence of Valpolicella: a harmonious blend of nature, passion, and craftsmanship, celebrated around the world for its unique character and timeless appeal.
Vertical Tasting
We had the pleasure of tasting six beautiful Amarones from the following years: 1987, 1995, 2007, 2012, 2016, 2017. Below our findings and the tasting notes.
1987 Amarone Acinatico
What. A. Beauty. this was! An absolute pleasure to taste such an exquisite wine. 1978 was a difficult year in the North of Italy due to a cold and rainy spring season. And although summer was good, it ended with a bad hailstorm and a lot of rain during harvesting resulting in a 30% loss of grapes. Despite all this, this wine turned out absolutely beautiful. The color dark red-brown. The nose intense! Reminding us of dark fruits, chocolate, spices, balsamic. Incredibly enough, although more than thirty years old the wine still has a finesse, a balance of sweetness and age coming together quite beautifully. An honor to be drinking this wine!
We award this wine with a 98-point DWA score.
1995 Amarone Il Fornetto
The Amarone “Il Fornetto” is an exceptional wine from a unique, namesake vineyard owned by Stefano Accordini. This vineyard exclusively cultivates the native Corvina Veronese (75%) and Corvinone (25%) grape varieties. After the grapes are hand-harvested, only the finest are selected and left to dry for days on traditional drying racks. This process greatly intensifies the concentration of the must. Similar to its older brother in color it was a beautiful (almost as a syrup) color mixture of deep dark red-brown with a hint of dark purple. Strawberry, dark fruits, and chocolate came to mind at it was almost as exquisite as its older brother but a bit higher in acids and tannins that presented itself clearer giving us reason to believe that this extraordinary wine can even age a little longer.
We award this wine with a 95-point DWA score.
2007 Amarone Il Fornetto
This wine had a deep red color with an intense and complex nose of cherry, dried prunes, vanilla, spices and a hint of tobacco. Rich and powerful yet smooth when you drink it with soft tannins. Another beautiful wine that really represents what Amarone is all about!
We award this wine with a 95-point DWA score.
2012 Amarone Il Fornetto
2012 was another great vintage! Spring was warm, followed by a warm summer with limited rainfall. The month of august was particularly warm with cool temperatures at night. A perfect situation for getting more color, sugar and PH. As a result, in this wine you can definitely taste the alcohol and sugar, but they never overpower thanks to a great balance with the wine’s acidity. It’s got a soft, smooth mouthfeel, and this vintage really stands out for its undeniable elegance.
We award this wine with a 97-point DWA score.
2016 Amarone Il Fornetto
This complex Amarone is perfect for enjoying on special occasions. And although it still has aging potential, this wine (almost black in color) had an intensely rich aroma of raisins and plums with subtle hints of leather and tobacco. Complex and powerful but yet again elegant and delightfully smooth as well!
We award this wine with a 92-point DWA score.
2017 Amarone Il Fornetto
Our final wine. The year 2017. A wine that still has a lot of aging potential. The vintage that has not been on the market for too long. We would safely stow it away to let it ripen another few years but if you really cannot wait it is already a pleasure to drink! A deep, yet bright color red with a nose that is characterized by the traditional Amarone flavour profile. What stands out is the balance this wine brings and its potential to become even greater than it is today!
We award this wine with a 92-point DWA score.
A Toast to Tradition: Celebrating the Enduring Legacy of Amarone
In conclusion, the exceptional journey through the vertical Amarone tasting at Stefano Accordini’s winery has been an unforgettable experience, offering an exquisite exploration of the craftsmanship behind one of Italy’s most celebrated wines.
From the deeply rooted history of the Accordini family to the stunning vintages presented, every glass of Amarone unveiled the inherent beauty and versatility of Valpolicella terroir. The wines, ranging from the mature elegance of the 1987 vintage to the promising future of the 2017s, exemplify not just technical mastery but a dedication to sustainable practices and passion for quality. Whether aged to perfection or still maturing, each bottle captured the essence of a timeless wine tradition. These wines are more than just a drink; they are a story of heritage, mastery, and passion that continues to unfold with every sip.
This article is written by our own Eline de Geus. We would like to thank Stefano Accordini and Twentsch Wijnhuis, in particular Bert ten Vergert, for this exquisite experience, that we will undoubtedly not forget and treasure! Accordini’s wines are for sale through Twentsch Wijnhuis, online or in their retail shop. Picture credits: Twentsch Wijnhuis and The Wine Atelier.
